PLASTERBOARDING A VICTORIAN HOUSE / OVER PLASTER

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Hi all,

I am in a dilemma as to what steps to take next...


I have started a fairly major job this weekend by stripping the walls of any loose plaster before patching it up.
As you can see from the pics there was a fair bit of it!... what a mess.
The house was built in 1908 and has solid external walls. The room is 6M x 4M x 2.75Mhigh. The two walls you are looking at in the pics are external and solid. (no cavity).
My initial plan after speaking to my local plasterer was that I would batten/lath the walls and offer up some insulated board between and then plasterboard over the top. He would then come and skim over them.
I then realised that if I were to screw some battens on top of the plaster, it would need to be relatively sound behind.
I went round the room tapping it with the back end of a screwdriver, anything sounding hollow I pulled off,.. it came off very easily. The one pic shows how the corner was particularly bad, this was because there was once a shower unit in that corner. (previous owner).
The plaster on both of these external walls is about an inch deep.

I was wondering if to patch up what I have done and then carry on applying the battens/laths on top or to carry on stripping the rest of the wall and apply the battens straight onto the bricks?
I was going to use carvers foil backed insulation board
http://www.carvers.co.uk/search.aspx?s=i903465
between the battens and
http://www.carvers.co.uk/search.aspx?s=i756262
to go over the top.

My step father then suggested I would be better using thermalcheck board
http://www.carvers.co.uk/products/P...EXTRUDED-XP-POLYSTYRENE-18-PER-PALLET/P131774
on top of the battens which is a combined polystyrene and plasterboard. He thought I should leave the space behind the 25mm thick battens and screw these boards directly on top, in affect creating a cavity. The only problem with this is, the windows would look strange with the insulation/plasterboard protruding beyond the level of the window edge and sill. Batten 25mm, thermalcheck 55mm + skim.

This problem would still happen using the initial plan, but by no way as far because the insulation was going to be against the wall with no cavity, the damp being protected by the foil backing. I thought I could add to the window some corner beading to disguise the difference.

This scenario would not happen however if I were to take off all the plaster and revert to applying the battens and insulation/board directly on top of the bricks using the first method.

I want to offer some insulation to room, but do not want to make a decision that I end up regretting or create work that is unnecessary. I also do not want to create a more serious damp problem.

This is an upstairs room has three external walls facing north, it has double glazing. There is a room above which is a converted loft.

I have two radiators that need to back onto the walls under the windows.

Your thoughts please would be appreciated.
 
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Have a look in my albums (bedroom and bedroom2) I had the same problem with my Victorian house and I have thick stone walls which was letting in water and you will see the route I went down, Dont worry about window revels as the plasterer should be able to form them for you or a joiner...
 
hack it all off the external walls, then you can insulate without excessive thickness. You can get a bonded insulating plasterboard.

If you are using battens on the damp wall, either use galvanised lathing or, if wood, soak thoroughly in Cuprinol or similar.
 
Thanks John and Roy,
I was thinking it was probably best to start again and take it back to the brick all over. The one internal wall was going to be a dot and dab exercise, but I am not sure about the fastness of the plaster on that wall to be honest.

The last link in my message I think is the insulated plasterboard you are referring to John, but I wasn't sure if to still then leave a gap behind the board or not.

The 1st link shows the foil backed insulation which I assume is made to go up against the brick as a reflective moisture barrier.

I have unfortunately already bought a ruck load of roofing laths that are treated.
See link...
http://www.carvers.co.uk/search.aspx?s=i858459

hopefully these should be ok, or do they require further treatment?
I have bought some plastic leveling spacers to make sure the laths/boards will be level all over.
;)
 
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Also, should I not seal the wall with a pva mix prior to the next stage?
 
soak all cut ends and drilled holes in wood preserver

I would tend to slosh them all over as well, but other people say pressure treatment is all you need.

What do you think the PVA will add? It dissolves in water and softens when damp.
 
Thanks for the tip on the cut ends and drilled holes, i imagine these would be the weak points where water would ingress.
I have noted that people on Youtube films have applied a coat of pva/water mix to brick walls before coating with plaster to prevent the walls soaking up the moisture and drying out too quickly. I don't suppose this step is necessary if I am erecting the boards straight onto brick, there is no wet plaster, therefore no moisture for the bricks to take.
Once I have taken off all the plaster and wire brushed it down, then soft brush to remove any loose dust and debris I wondered if the mix might help the wall retain some of its solidity, rather than continuing to deteriorate behind the plasterboard.
 

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