Plastering and damp proof advise on a 1930s

[Jonny Vee]

I purchased this house which has got an issue on the kitchen with the all plastering completely coming apart.

Looking from the outside I`m not able to see any dump proof course. I can see some concrete

Is there any one understanding if the concrete was meant to be the damp course and what would be the best remedial work on this case.

Thanks for your advise

 

[bobasd]

outside, the bottom two courses of brick have been painted with a bitumen paint, there's also a sand and cement plinth - the idea was to prevent damp from rising or penetrating in that wall.
the DPC is in the bed above the two courses - the green algae is from splash water.
the metal vent appears to be too high to have been doing much good when the kitchen floor was perhaps suspended.

inside theres another attempt at using bitumen on the lower brickwork - again its an attempt to prevent damp in the inner wall.
to do a proper job you will have to move all units/appliances away from the wall, and knock off the plaster back to brickwork to a height of about 1m.
the wall should then be rendered with 4:1 sand and lime render.

when the plaster is off then open up the cavity and inspect for rubble bridging the DPC's.
there should be a DPM under your solid floor.

 

[Jonny Vee]

outside, the bottom two courses of brick have been painted with a bitumen paint, there's also a sand and cement plinth - the idea was to prevent damp from rising or penetrating in that wall.
the DPC is in the bed above the two courses - the green algae is from splash water.
the metal vent appears to be too high to have been doing much good when the kitchen floor was perhaps suspended.

inside theres another attempt at using bitumen on the lower brickwork - again its an attempt to prevent damp in the inner wall.
to do a proper job you will have to move all units/appliances away from the wall, and knock off the plaster back to brickwork to a height of about 1m.
the wall should then be rendered with 4:1 sand and lime render.

when the plaster is off then open up the cavity and inspect for rubble bridging the DPC's.
there should be a DPM under your solid floor.

Hi,


Thanks for your comments. I can clarify the the bitumen painted covers the sand and cement plinth first course of bricks only.


Not sure how you can determine that the course is above the to courses. What tell you this. Is there any way to investigate further?


No idea what the vent grid is for but as you said too high even for the suspended flooring.


Inside is a mess. Kitchen cabinet need to go into the bin. Tiles are coming off. My idea is to remove all plaster and convert the room into a second bathroom.


Do you reckon is worth to spend some money on the DPM cream injected betweem the plinth and first courses? I have also notice that the grout on the brick is very fragile and need to be replaced. Is this a big issue or common on house like this?


I can clean up and check for any DPM even if I doubt there is one.

 

[bobasd]

remove the plinth from around your house. it will be just bridging the DPC in one of the lower beds.
DPC's are typically set in line with or below the FFL. but investigate yourself and locate the DPC's in both walls.
the pointing is failing, and needs hacking out to a depth of about 20mm, and re-pointing - the pointing in the pics is itself a failed attempt to re-point.
remove the vent cover and brick up the opening.

rising damp inside could be from gypsum plaster in contact with the solid floor - but open and inspect the cavity for any bridging rubble.

how, and where, do you propose to run a sewer drain from the new bathroom WC - on a return elevation through the kitchen side walls?

there's no grout only mortar in your walls.
there's no reason to inject a cream DPC.