plastic or copper pipe?

[tukky142]

Hi,

I have had a kitchen/bedroom extension built and I am just get prices for the plumbing work. I have been asked by my plumber if I want copper or plastic pipe - which is the best and which is the most expensive - I assume copper?. I want the CH extended into the new bedroom/ensuite and the MainsW moved in the kitchen and also fed into the ensuite. HW also has to be piped into the ensuite.
I require a new radiator in the bedroom and a towel rail in the ensuite. I also require two plinth heaters in the new kitchen. I also want the shower/sink and toliet plumbed in. I have been quoted £3000 as worst case - does this sound high? - I know you cant tell without looking but just as a ball park figure.

 

[megawatt]

You can use either and it's a case of personal preference.

I prefer copper with soldered joints anywhere not immediately accessible but, I'm sure, others will have different opinions

 

[D1nhs]

Im not a pro but since using the Hep20 plastic push fit system im never going back to copper!

Slightly more expensive, but saves so much time and effort, slightly flexible and will not corrode like copper

Good luck!

 

[Nixt]

Copper doesn't corrode when installed correctly.

 

[Doctor Drivel]

Copper.

Plastic pipe with push-fit fittings should be avoided. Plastic is best when used with compression joints.

Plastic has inserts which can be places where crud builds up. Also the inserts reduce the pipe diameter.

Also avoid plastic pipe that uses plastic inserts - use only metal inserts.

 

[gas4you]

Also avoid plastic pipe that uses plastic inserts - use only metal inserts.

Just out of curiosity why?

 

[Doctor Drivel]

Also avoid plastic pipe that uses plastic inserts - use only metal inserts.

Just out of curiosity why?

The metal is stronger and keeps the pipe round better. When using compression joints a strong pipe is far better.

 

[Agile]

If your CH is open vented they you could use either.

If a sealed system then my advice would be to use copper as plastic cannot stand some fault conditions.

Tony

 

[Dan Robinson]

Polypipe barrier takes 7Bar@82 degrees.... covers most CH faults no?

And, not that I want to start another argument with DD, but I have two types of inster in my fittings box, one metal, one plastic. One is stronger than the other under any condition (hint: it uses O-rings).

I do agree that it cause an extra source of clogs, but a clean properly installed system shouldn't be suffering form that any way.

 

[ScottishGasMan]

How many bar does that pipe take at 100*c+ ?

 

[Dan Robinson]

Dunno about 100 degrees, but 90 degrees at 6 bar.

 

[Doctor Drivel]

Polypipe barrier takes 7Bar@82 degrees.... covers most CH faults no?

And, not that I want to start another argument with DD, but I have two types of insert in my fittings box, one metal, one plastic. One is stronger than the other under any condition (hint: it uses O-rings).

...are you saying the plastic insert is stronger than the metal? Please?????

I do agree that it cause an extra source of clogs, but a clean properly installed system shouldn't be suffering form that any way.

They also reduce the bore of the pipe substantially - a point many overlook. 15mm is down to 12mm

I have seen some plastic pipes blocked because of crud build up at an insert - a nice chamfer for crud to gather under.

I recently came across a 15mm Speedfit pipe that expanded so much it expanded out of a brass compression joint removing the olive, causing a major leak. Always have lots of slack with plastic pipework to take up expansion.

 

[ScottishGasMan]

90 degrees at 6 bar sounds fine, was just thinking of a failure in a thermostat.

Think its personal choice altho as far as ive seen regardless of inserts etc if there is sludge in the system it seems to stick to the plastic very well.

Would be using a magnaclean on it if your starting a new system/boiler. Would prob use that on any new system actually.

 

[Doctor Drivel]

90 degrees at 6 bar sounds fine, was just thinking of a failure in a thermostat.

Think its personal choice altho as far as ive seen regardless of inserts etc if there is sludge in the system it seems to stick to the plastic very well.

Would be using a magnaclean on it if your starting a new system/boiler. Would prob use that on any new system actually.

They work well on old systems as well, getting all the gunge floating around. Best use Fernox" cleaner (the old DS9 stuff) first. That burns the stuff off before a flush and inhibitor.

 

[Dan Robinson]

Jesus Drivel you really do make a point of arguing for teh sake of it.

Seeing as you asked nicely, I will see if I have time to dig two out of the van. One I can crush with my teeth very easily - the other I can not.