please help drive way damp proof problem

[twedspeed]

Hi look at the attatched photos you will see that the drive goes up over and eventually ABOVE the damp proof course - what effects will this have and how do I correct it before the winter - thanx?

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• twedspeed
• 15 Jul 2010
• 1

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• twedspeed
• 15 Jul 2010
• 1

Untitled

• twedspeed
• 15 Jul 2010
• 1

Untitled

• twedspeed
• 15 Jul 2010
• 1

thanx?[/img][/i][/b]

 

[themiddleagedun]

I can't see a problem... Is the DPC not on top of the buff bricks?

 

[theoldun]

If you go back outside and look where you took first photo, the DPC is in the second course of buffs down.
If you follow this round, then the worst case is that the DPC is 75mm above path level.
oldun.

 

[twedspeed]

NO NO NO ..Look at the photos...BELIEVE ME - AS i SAID THE , drive rises upover and where it goes behind the white electicity meter box THE LEVEL OF THE DRIVE GOES ABOVE THE DPC so when it rains and snow stands on it - it will be above the DPC so do I need to have a chanel/drain and grating fitted - is there some magic gloopy mastic that I can buy from B&Q to seal it or what ??/

 

[Alastairreid]

answers here.

 

[freddiemercurystwin]

Another idiot to add to my ungrateful list!

 

[holmslaw]

Is that a scrote way of saying thankyou.

 

[alittlerespect]

Hi

The top surface of your paved area needs to be a minimum of 150mm below the dpc.

Possibly the only way out of your situation would be to remove the first and maybe second course of paving bricks nearest the building line (trial and error - remove one and if you still have problems remove the second course!) When done dig a channel to a depth of 300mm (12") below dpc and backfill with washed peabeach gravel to finish 150mm below dpc. Rather than pea beach you could use concrete to backfill, although the pea beach will allow surface water to drain away whereas concrete will create a gulley and you will have to keep an eye on the gulley not becoming blocked with leaves etc. (your choice!)

A one brick gap should not create a trip hazard, but if you need to go to a 2 brick gap you may wish to mark the area out to determine if it is likely to cause a trip hazard, you should be ok as most peoples feet never get that close to a wall when walking up a drive, although getting out of a car might be a separate issue.

In writing this thread I am assuming that the surface is brick, if instead this is patterned concrete you will need to hire a 'disk cutter' to cut a clean line down the driveway before breaking out the offending material.

Regards