Please help! Wiring for electric oven...

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I am having my kitchen refitted. Had the electrician around to lower my socket and install lighting cables etc. He didn't have time to finish the wiring for the extractor as was very busy so has told me what I need to do and that is fine. Trouble is, after he left I remembered that my new oven is electric and does not have a feed grr! As I am having the whole room plastered I wondered can the feed for the oven come from a nearby double socket or does it need to go directly to the main board. There is a switch saying cooker on it on my fuse board but have just pulled out all of the units and looked behind and there is not a cooker switch in sight. Perhaps the double socket on the right of the oven was one which was then changed into a double socket? I just wondered where I need to put cables in place so I can get my plastering done. Can anybody help please :eek:) thanks
 
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Sorry but that was no 'Electrician' you have employed, I guess the socket was a single and higher up the wall than the newly chased double below. Has he extended the wires , if so how ? The plastic capping is not in line with the old capping so therefore takes the cable outside of the safe zones permitted by the regs. and as for that chase ??? What the hell is that meant to be, May i suggest you ring him up and get him back to finish his work as after all he will need to test the circuit and provide you with an Electrical Installation Certificate to prove the wiring is safe .

The oven problem may be as you think a simple case of changing the socket to a cooker point and then wiring an outlest, but without seeing the wiring behind the socket we cannot advise.

Nick
 
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tonyelectric

Wow, i've seen it all, this is awful :eek: , no electrician would do such shocking work and then clear off telling you what to do, this work has to be done to two sets of regs (17th & part P) tested, certified and notified.

You must at once contact him and complain, ask what scheme he belongs to (NICEIC, ECA, NAPIT, ELECSA) and report him if the work is not finished properly and a full EIC with schedule of test results should be in your hands when he finishes.

If your cooker is rated more than 3KW it will need a dedicated supply run back to the CU, basically if its wholly electrically heated it should have a dedicated supply, but for now you need to sort out this mess.

Best Tony
 
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The chase above is where the cabling for the extractor is going. Yes all of the double sockets have been moved down, the capping is not in line as it needs to be fixed back in place before the plastering is done. He is coming back to connect everything up at the end I just need to establish what I need to do about the wiring for the cooker so I can chase out and put the cables in place and cap them. Thanks
 
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OOoooh dear. thanks for your advice. I did not realise this is not how things should look. The oven is electric and the hob is gas. The oven is the Bosch Exxcel HBN53B550B Built Under Double Multi-function Oven. Uh I am just trying to get this sorted out so I can get this kitchen done :confused:
 
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Your oven needs a dedicated supply.

None of those chases are within safe zones, so unless he's coming back and putting in all in steel conduit, you cannot go ahead with that setup. Get rid of him, get your money back from him, and hire a real electrician to fix things.
 
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Chases in the wall have to fall within safe zones, for a socket that is directly above or below in a line vertically or horizontally from the outlet. Your chase is in no way compliant with this rule. Not to mention the capping HE installed is nt in the zone either. As tony said you need to get this sorted now before plastering , and he should do it for free as its his name going on the certificate.

Nick
 
T

tonyelectric

Its not good :unsure: , have wires been joined in the area where the old box was, if so how?, the joins need to be maintenance free (ie. Ashley Maintenance free JB) and need to be within an enclosure before they are plastered in, or if not left accesible by way of a blank plate and box
 
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The wires have been joined and taped all the way down to the lower double socket. I have had loads of trouble trying to get him back, god don't want to have to pay someone else now. What a nightmare. Seems anything that I get done always goes wrong!
 
T

tonyelectric

Joined and taped :eek:

Joined and taped :eek:

This joining needs to take place in a suitable enclosure utilising a suitable joining method which, if a screwed join must be accesible.

suitable methods would be - Ashley maintenance free JB (plaster in) Box & chock block (access) Solder joins heat sleeved in box (plaster in) New type screwits or push fit connectors in box (plaster in) Crimp lugs in box (plaster in).

Taped up joins loose in the wall are.....

I don'y believe it :eek:
 
T

tonyelectric

The wires have been joined and taped all the way down to the lower double socket. I have had loads of trouble trying to get him back, god don't want to have to pay someone else now. What a nightmare. Seems anything that I get done always goes wrong!

Hang on a mo,

You say taped all the way down to the new socket - why, where has the outer insulation of the cable leading from the join too the new socket gone :?:
 
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I have had loads of trouble trying to get him back, god don't want to have to pay someone else now.
I feel very sorry for you, but I'm afraid you have no choice.

I wouldn't advise getting this guy back even if you could, such is the appalling quality of his workmanship - "desperately incompetent" doesn't begin to cover it.

Unfortunately you have been ripped off by a cowboy who has left you with a dangerous and illegal mess. It happens, but you have to get it sorted whether you want to or not.

If he's registered with one of the schemes you ought to be able to get recompense, but I suspect that he isn't- you either employed someone who didn't claim to be or if he did was lying.

You may have to contemplate legal action to get your money refunded, but take advice on whether there'd be any reasonable prospect of success. At the very least though take lots of pictures and ask the real electrician you get to put his name to a list of faults and sent the lot to Trading Standards.

Good luck.
 

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