plug socket

[stevie123456789]

Quick query. I have recently moved into a new house. In the lounge there is a fused switch on the wall, which has two wires running into it down from the ceiling. I would like to swap the switch for a plug socket. Do I need to buy one of those screwdriver Mains testers to see if the switch is live or can I just swap the switch for a plug socket and see if it works?

I don't really want to have to buy a multimeter, as it's a one off thing (unless definitely required)

Thanks for your help

 

[bernardgreen]

one of those screwdriver Mains testers~~~~~ don't really want to have to buy a multimeter, as it's a one off thing (unless definitely required)

Life is per person definately a one off thing.

 

[rjm2k]

Do you know what the fused switch is/was for? Is it something that's been decomissioned? maybe wall lights?

I've used the neon screwdriver things myself but more experienced people on here will tell you they are dangerous, so if you work out it's actually OK to do what you want, perhaps switching off ALL power may be safer if you aren't sure what you are doing.

 

[stevie123456789]

Thanks for your replies...I can't see anything that it is connected to. The switch doesn't seem to turn anything on. It is positioned where a fireplace was, so I wasn't sure whether it originally had a flex running from it to the fire??

I presume I can't do any damage to myself or the electrics if I turn everything off, change the switch for a plug switch, and test a table lamp or something?

 

[bernardgreen]

, and test a table lamp or something?

That will only prove the table lamps works. It will NOT prove the new switched socket is SAFE to use. ( or that the table lamp is safe )

The very important test is that the earth connection to the new socket does have a low impendance connection to the earthing terminal by the meter. That test requires a meter.

 

[Chri5]

Nowt is that simple.

You need to confirm what circuit at the fuse board controls the fused spur.

If it is a lighting circuit then they aren't designed to take potential loads of 2 x 13 amps ( double socket with 2 13 amp appliances used).

You need to confirm the circuit type that controls the LNE feed at the board, and the mcb rating.

You also need to confirm that cables on the load side of the fused spur are no longer used.

Sorry to say that you really shouldn't be undertaking this work without the correct tools. Multimeters can be found on fleabay for under £20. As a minimum why not invest in

http://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/TMDM219.html

Or

http://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/STCOMBI.html

 

[JohnD]

follow the wires into the ceiling and see where they go.

Is there an immersion heater upstairs?

turn off the circuits in your consumer unit one at a time and see which makes the switch go dead.

throw away your neon screwdriver and buy a multimeter. £10 will get you a cheap one.

 

[ban-all-sheds]

OK - first of all, let's get one thing clear.

I assume that you would be using screwdrivers to remove and replace the switch and socket, connect the wires up etc?

i.e. I assume that you have screwdrivers in your tool box because you recognise that they are the right things to have, that using the point of a knife is not right, and that if someone decides that they want to do things with screws then they should get screwdrivers?

Multimeters have exactly the same status when it comes to electrical work. As you have decided that you want to do electrical work then a multimeter becomes as essential as screwdrivers.

I don't really want to have to buy a multimeter, as it's a one off thing

But it's not.

This is the 2nd electrical job you've posted about, and I doubt it will be the last, given that you're doing significant refurbishments to a house you've recently moved into and are contemplating major building work.

Buy a meter.


This looks ideal for a household starter set - multimeter, voltage indicator and dedicated continuity tester, all in a handy case: http://www.amprobe.eu/de_DE/showproduct/115/Junior-Set/

PDF brochure: http://www.amprobe.eu/de_DE/downloadfile/115/beschreibung_1/

All in German, unfortunately, as is the blurb on each product:

Multimeter: http://www.amprobe.eu/de_DE/showproductdata/487/Hexagon_55/

Voltage indicator: http://www.amprobe.eu/de_DE/showproduct/116/2000_α_(alpha)/

Continuity tester: http://www.amprobe.eu/de_DE/showproduct/481/TESTFIX/

but it is sold in the UK - the company is now owned by Fluke, and I guess they haven't got all the websites sorted out yet - contact them (http://www.fluke.co.uk) for info on where to buy.

Right now the English specs are still lurking on the Internet Time Machine from when Beha was an independent company:

http://web.archive.org/web/20060920022629/http://www.beha.com/files_uk/multimeter/93549.pdf


Also see another discussion here: //www.diynot.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=26282 It's a few years old, so specific model number advice may be obsolete (and prices will be higher), but the generic advice is still sound.


If you don't want to buy a meter then don't do electrical work.

 

[EFLImpudence]

I don't really want to have to buy a multimeter, as it's a one off thing

 

[stevie123456789]

Clearly a multimeter is required for me to do this safely, which is fair enough. Would it be possible for someone to tell me what tests need to be done and what results I should expect if the switch is on the ring main. Although I have used one before, it would be fair to say it's been awhile.

Thanks for your replies