Plumber bypassed thermostat wiring - how to revert back to normal?

[bountyhunter]

Note: programmer has been bypassed, not the thermostat

Plumber came and bypassed the programmer as it was faulty, so he wired the heating to go on as soon as boiler is switched on.

I've now replaced the programmer and need to fix the wiring back to how it was. The programmer is still powered on and the hot water works fine from it, just the heating is always on regardless of what setting the programmer is set to.

I've attached an image of the wiring and explained the connections below.

Setup: boiler, programmer (Drayton LP722 dual channel) and thermostat are downstairs. Separate hot water tank and switch box in the airing cupboard upstairs.

I hope someone can help me rewire this to be back to normal so that the system listens to the programmer - thank you for your help, much appreciated!

--

Here is how the wires are connected at the bottom:

1.
Empty

2.
- Blue to pump
- Blue to hot water 2 port valve
- Blue to heating 2 port valve

3.
- Green/yellow to heating 2 port valve
- Green/yellow to hot water 2 port valve
- Green/yellow to pump

4.
Empty

5.
- Light brown to hot water 2 port valve
- White link to 7

6.
- Dark Brown to thermostat on hot water tank

7.
- White link back to 5
- Grey to heating 2 port valve
- Grey to hot water 2 port valve

8.
- Orange to hot water 2 port valve
- Orange to heating 2 port valve

9.
- Dark Brown to pump

10.
- Light brown to heating 2 port valve
- Blue to thermostat on hot water tank


--

So overall the heating 2 port valve is connected to:
- Blue on 2
- Green/yellow on 3
- Grey on 7
- Orange on 8
- Light brown on 10

And there is also that white link between 5 and 7.

 

[Mottie]

He might have joined them at the thermostat end. Check that first.

 

[bountyhunter]

He might have joined them at the thermostat end. Check that first.

Thanks for your response-

I was with him for his entire visit and it was quite brief (emergency plumber as our heating turned off) - he didn't take the thermostat off the wall at all so definitely not joined there, and didn't take the programmer off either. Only played around with the two port valve (tried switching the motor) and then changed some wires around.

He actually bypassed the heating on the programmer itself rather than just the thermostat actually now that I think about it, as the programmer was what was broken.

 

[flameport]

It's the white link. Switch of all power and remove it, but make sure that other wires in those terminals are kept as they are, including those into the top half of the terminal strip.

The white link connects grey (permanent 240V) to the brown for the heating valve, so it's permanently open.

Your description has the brown CH and HW wires swapped, 10 is the HW valve, 5 is the heating.

 

[bountyhunter]

It's the white link. Switch of all power and remove it, but make sure that other wires in those terminals are kept as they are, including those into the top half of the terminal strip.

The white link connects grey (permanent 240V) to the brown for the heating valve, so it's permanently open.

Your description has the brown CH and HW wires swapped, 10 is the HW valve, 5 is the heating.

Amazing, thank you so much!

I will try this and report back ASAP. I really appreciate your help!

Update:
Thanks so much - this was exactly it.

Took it out and it stopped the heating from setting off instantly, but the heating wouldn't switch on at all. Ultimately was about to give up, then decided to run out and buy a replacement thermostat and fitting that finally fixed the issue- turned out to never be the programmer in the first place (which was what the plumber diagnosed as the issue).

Great help, thanks a lot, I really appreciate it! Saved me a ton of headache.