Plumbing under the sink

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I am fitting a new kitchen and contemplating the above. I came across this video and am quite fond of this approach (as opposed to the wild west that I always see under the sink!).


I was planning to let the copper lengths go through the unit and use hep20 to connect under the cabinet as it will save me soldering in awkward positions and provide some flexibility to line up with these copper tails.

Interested to hear if anyone has used this approach, are there any flaws or do you have a different method. Thanks in advance.
 
Beware of having pipework fixed to the unit like that- makes it a complete nightmare to pull a unit out if you ever need to.
Waste is usually trickier than hot and cold (cos gravity) so plan that first.
If you have the standard service void behind the units, use that for your pipework, tee off to control valves then either placcie or long Flexi tap tails to the final terminations. You'll need smaller holes in the back of the units if the tees come straight out (rather than pointing up or down) plus again easier to mark and fit/remove units.
 
makes it a complete nightmare to pull a unit out if you ever need to.
If I had a push fit elbow under the cabinet, it could be popped off by removing the plinth and the whole thing could then slide out.
I thought that having it on the side may make it more accessible - rather than the back of the unit.

Waste is usually trickier than hot and cold (cos gravity) so plan that first.
That will need to be at the back of the unit and yes, I can use the service void for that.
 
It's got a lot nutty. Typical youtube nonsense I'm afraid.
He's missed out the hard part - dealing with the fairly random positions that pipes come into the cabinet because of things not under easy control.
He casually puts copper through the bottom to be connected "somewhere else" - well that's the harder part. E.g. your mains is likely to come in from under the floor maybe to a chunky mdpe stopcock, at the back wall. You have to be able to access it. You can't just move it usually.
And don't forget the bonding.
Are you ever going to have to remove the cabinet - you don't want things poking up through the bottom.
Equally, you'll likely have H & C and garden tap coming horizontally clipped to the back wall, behind the unit, already.
So he's assuming everything else is already convenient for him to be able to use his magic expensive and unnecessary cut piece of 3/4 ply.
Washing machine hoses? Where are they going?
ANything like waste pipes, macerator drains, washing machine drains, in there too? Of course there will be.

It's not hard to take the measurements you need then solder up what you need wherever's convenient.
You don't need to do it inside the cabinet.
With appropriately placed compression connector or valve you'd remove the bit(s) you need. The piece of wood isn't cheap and it's more to do, and it gives negligible benefit.
As for putting pushfit in places like underneath the cabinet where you can't reach it - no way, those are more likely to start leaking than copper.
 
As for putting pushfit in places like underneath the cabinet where you can't reach it - no way, those are more likely to start leaking than copper.
With what I had in mind, you will be able to reach the pushfit by removing the plinth and at that point this whole setup could be removed - if necessary. Is your point on leaking pushfits (in comparison to copper) a general point or specific to this situation? I have used many Hep20 fittings in the past (on plastic and copper pipes) and never had one fail.
 
Only watched a little bit. He talk total sense and thinks like me.
Pipework done well including the waste allows the customer storage and is less likely to leak.
 

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