Tap supply too high?

[markyyyyyy]

Just done plumbing for under kitchen sink

The laser line is where top of cabinet will be. I am having 12. 5mm worktop.

The top of the isolation valves are only 22cm lower than laser line (top of cabinet).

Are these too high up? A flexi tap tail will probably have to much bend on it?

Or is thee a way around it?

I did attempt copper pipe and solder before the pushfit. I turned the water on and it started ****ing everywhere hence resorting to pushfit.

Cheers

 

[oldbutnotdead]

Depends on your taps- if you use monoblocs some have rigid copper into them- and exactly where the taps will be in relation to the pipes.
Bizzarely you may end up having to use longer flexis so they can do a 360 degree loop (which works) instead of a pair of kinks (not so good).
12.5mm worktop-you sure about that?
EDIT Bonus with pushfit- if you have to you can change it all like Lego. Soldered copper is much more compact- do some test pieces on the bench to get your confidence back, get a cheap pressure tester (don't go mad with pressure on a dry system tho, 1 bar is plenty, 3 bar could be a bit risky if anything pops off-think air rifle )

 

[markyyyyyy]

Depends on your taps- if you use monoblocs some have rigid copper into them- and exactly where the taps will be in relation to the pipes.
Bizzarely you may end up having to use longer flexis so they can do a 360 degree loop (which works) instead of a pair of kinks (not so good).
12.5mm worktop-you sure about that?
EDIT Bonus with pushfit- if you have to you can change it all like Lego. Soldered copper is much more compact- do some test pieces on the bench to get your confidence back, get a cheap pressure tester (don't go mad with pressure on a dry system tho, 1 bar is plenty, 3 bar could be a bit risky if anything pops off-think air rifle )

Cheers for repsonse
So would you keep them where they are then?

Yes zenith compact laminate worktop. I've heard it's quite good? Too late now if not?!

 

[oldbutnotdead]

Yeah, leave them be for now. You fitting kitchen yourself- if so, once you know exactly where taps, units etc are going, offer them up roughly, have a play & take it from there. If pros are doing it they'll cope with what's there (that's why you pay them) .

 

[Madrab]

Do you have the sink and tap with the tails? If they are flexi's then just measure the tap tails length and then subtract the width of the worktop, that should be the rough height of the connection. It doesn't need to be exact, just close enough. If they are rigid copper tap tails then the measurements need to spot on so I'd leave that until the sink is in and then size the pipework to suit.

Don't forget that if they are flexi tap tails that the valves will either require the top of them to be filed flat, tap tail adapters fitted or a piece of pipe and a 15mm>1/2" male coupler added to ensure the rubber seals aren't damaged when tightening.

 

[markyyyyyy]

Yes I do have the taps, I will have a look later. Ideally I don't want to have to adjust the pipework, I suppose I can use the suggestion of getting longer tails and 'looping' the hose around.

What length flexi would suggest for that idea, considering its sitting 20cm below top of cabinet (22cm below top of worktop)?

 

[Madrab]

Probably around the 500-mm mark to allow for larger radius pig tails.