Porcelain Floor Tiles

[MalcMJM]

A plumber has just tiled my bathroom, it looks great except the grouting between the floor tiles keeps crumbling. He tells me that it could be because of the porcelain floor tiles being layed onto a wooden floor. He has attempted again using a plastisiser in the mix but it has happened again. I know he layed a sub floor on top of the old wooden floor boards, (4ply marine Ply I think). Can anyone tell me a way to resolve this problem or should I just rip them all up and replace them with another type of tile??

 

[Jasonb]

If he used 4mm ply thats too thin you need 12mm minimum, what type of adhesive did he use, this should have been a flexible adhesive as should the grout.

If grout with a plasticizer is still cracking then there is still too much flex in the floor caused by the thin ply, no easy fix but to rip it up and start again.

Jason

 

[MalcMJM]

Would it be best if I ripped up all the floor boards and replace it with really thick ply??

 

[gcol]

If you don't want any extra height, then yeah, take the floorboards up and replace with 25mm WBP. Fit noggins (extra timber supports) under the ply sheet edges. But if you can't be ars*d, just screw down 12mm WBP (as Jason said) every 200mm all over the sheet surface.

 

[MalcMJM]

I am trying to get hold of the plumber to see exactly what kind of ply he layed down

 

[MalcMJM]

I have managed to get hold of the Plumber, he said that he layed a 4mm floating ply surface, he said that he has always done this without any problems, however, he has agreed to come and rectify the problem by taking up all the old floorboards and replace them with a 25mm special covering (Green boards??) and he will retile and grout, I am to pay for the materials and he will do the labour. I think the problem will be solved. Thanks for your help

 

[Jasonb]

Would like to know what his Special boards are, the ones that are usually green are chipboard which is NOT suitable. Get 25mm WBP ply which costs more than chipboard but is up to the job.

Jason

 

[MalcMJM]

Not sure what they are, he said they have a tongue and grove and come in 8' X 2' lengths and have been specialy treated to be waterproof. I will keep you posted

 

[Jasonb]

Definately sounds like V313 moisture resistant chipboard, even Caber one of the largest makers in this country don't recommend tiling straight onto their boards.

Its not just the moisture resistance that you need, its a rigid board that will not flex beyond what the adhesive can accomodate.

Jason

 

[MalcMJM]

I will ensure that he does not lay any sort of chipboard, besides, I am having to pay for the materials so I want it dont right. Thanks for all the advice

 

[daddym]

Just something to check: make sure the grout is a flexible floor grout and is suitable for porcelain. Porcelain tiles require a specific additive. See: http://www.bal-adhesives.co.uk/bal/bal_products/superflex_wide_joint.asp
I've used BAL for ages now and with the PorcelBond additive I've never had a problem.

(plumbers plumb - tilers tile )[/b]

 

[tiler jase]

Plumbers do plumbing.Tilers do tiling. You see my point ?. A plumber has used a plasticiser to avoid grout cracking?.Would a tiler use super glue to connect two copper pipes?. If you have a stable and level floor to begin with i.e tongue and groove floorboarding (or chipboard as is the norm with new builds nowadays), you do not have to overlay with WBP or plywood etc. By using a BAL acryllic primer, Fastflex flexible floor adhesive and superflex grout this problem would never have arisen.

 

[tiler jase]

Plumbers do plumbing.Tilers do tiling. You see my point ?. A plumber has used a plasticiser to avoid grout cracking?.Would a tiler use super glue to connect two copper pipes?. If you have a stable and level floor to begin with i.e tongue and groove floorboarding (or chipboard as is the norm with new builds nowadays), you do not have to overlay with WBP or plywood etc. By using a BAL acryllic primer, Fastflex flexible floor adhesive and superflex grout this problem would never have arisen.