Potterton Kingfisher CFL 80

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Hopefully someone can help me with my Potteron CFL 80 which is driving me up the firkin wall.

The boiler is located in my cellar, with a conventional flue which finishes above the guttering at the top of the house. There is a cowling on top of the flue.

For the past three years whenever there have been very strong winds the boiler has locked out with the red light permanently lit. It will not reset and consequently I have had the following replaced:
7 x PCBs (or maybe eight)
2 x gas valves
and a variety of other bits that I have forgotten about.

Fortunately, the boiler is now covered through Domestic and General and Baxi Potterton so I actually only paid out for one PCB before joining a cover plan. But not once has any one (not even one of Baxi Potterton's time-served senior engineers) been able to give a simple explanation why this keeps happening.

I tell them until I am blue in the face that the wind causes the PCB to fry itself. They say that this is impossible and that the wind would simply blow out the pilot light or cause the boiler to shut down temporarily because of the air pressure.

I wonder if the wind is causing the fan to work harder, increasing the resistance and shorting the board (hey - it's a better explanation than anyone else has come back with).

Anyway, another engineer will come tomorrow and throw another PCB at the problem without actually fixing it. Meanwhile the lovely spring weather, snow and gale force winds continue and I'm starting to get cold again.

Sorry for the length of my first post but does anyone have any bright ideas on this one. Thanks.
 
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If your convinced its the flue.

Change your cowl for a rotorvent, H pot or other design that prevents or reduces downdraught.

I trust your ventilation requirements are to at least, the minimum required?
 
baxpoti said:
I trust your ventilation requirements are to at least, the minimum required?

I take it you mean the ventilation requirements in the cellar? If so there is an airbrick to the rear outside wall a couple of feet from the boiler plus free flowing air from the airbrick at the front of the house.

The cowling is a louvred top part which I understood was meant to prevent downdraught. However, a rotovent shouldn't be too much of an issue to install. Would this type of job be common fare for most heating engineers or would I need someone with an HVAC background?
 
eddie twadds said:
a conventional flue which finishes above the guttering at the top of the house.

The flue should ideally be 125mm, vertical and the terminal must be at least, above roof level.

Ventilation directly to outside must be a minimum 101cm²
 
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The airbrick looks a decent size - it fits in a space of about four standard house bricks (although I'll have to check it meets the minimum requirements) - so thanks for the guidance.

What are the minimum requirements for indirect ventilation?
 
Sorry - the flue temination is about two/three feet above the gutter but is below the roofline. Is this within the regs?
 
Thanks - I'll look in the installation manual.

The installation pre-dates my ownership of the house so I can only assume the Corgi registered installer who fitted the thing and signed the install sheet knew what he was doing.

BTW another engineer came today and confirmed that the PCB was fried - but no idea as to why. Part hopefully coming tomorrow.

In your opinion Baxpoti, do you think the downdraught could be a contributory factor? The boiler is fantastic until the wind starts howling - and then I either turn it off or cross my fingers - which can't really be the best way forward!!
 
eddie twadds said:
In your opinion Baxpoti, do you think the downdraught could be a contributory factor?

From the information you have given, it appears that downdraught is causing a problem, how this could be affecting the PCB I do not know.

I would check, the installation is to at least the minimum requirements in all respects, and in particular, gas supply, ventilation and flue
 

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