Potterton Kingfisher Mf CFL 70

[spraggo]

[At this moment in time (or now) I am looking at a wiring diagram for a fully pumped system mode 16 based on the system I have. Later today I intend to check for power from the two 2 port valves to the boiler/pump circuit as has been suggested.

All you have to do is
(1) look at the boiler terminal block and see if there are three wires connected to the pump L N E terminals, are there, YES or NO,?

(2) Check that there is 175DC voltage at the red and white connections on the gas valve or PL3 while the boiler is in fault condition, ei, when the pilot is lit and the fan is running, YES or NO?. If you would kindly give us a positive answer to these 2 questions it will save further unecessary corrospondance.

 

[stevecaner3546]

[At this moment in time (or now) I am looking at a wiring diagram for a fully pumped system mode 16 based on the system I have. Later today I intend to check for power from the two 2 port valves to the boiler/pump circuit as has been suggested

All you have to do is
(1) look at the boiler terminal block and see if there are three wires connected to the pump L N E terminals, are there, YES or NO,?.

Ho Ho Ho.... There isn't a "terminal block" as such but a series of 2 & 3 connector - connector block strips. Remember this was installed by an idiotic bodger some 25 years ago but he did have the sense to cram them into a plastic box 5" x 5" so I know where to find them - Oh - he didn't label them either so at the moment it's a case of "trace and label" then test.

(2) Check that there is 175DC voltage at the red and white connections on the gas valve or PL3 while the boiler is in fault condition, ei, when the pilot is lit and the fan is running, YES or NO?. If you would kindly give us a positive answer to these 2 questions it will save further unecessary corrospondance.

This is one thing I have to find. I know where to find it but getting at it might be awkward as the boiler is fitted under a worktop with about 1" clearance between the top cover and the bottom of the worktop.

The manual shows that once the front panel is removed, or swung out of the way, this connection should be easy enough to find so please bear with me on this.

If I don't respond until Sunday or Monday it's because we are going to London Saturday lunch time and returning Sunday lunch time so if I don't do it today it'll have to be Monday.

Thanks for being patient.

 

[twgas]

The boiler terminal block is behind the panel where the boiler thermostat is, it wont be in a 5"*5" junction box.
you can access the gas valve via the bottom panel, to check for the voltage.

 

[stevecaner3546]

The boiler terminal block is behind the panel where the boiler thermostat is, it wont be in a 5"*5" junction box.
you can access the gas valve via the bottom panel, to check for the voltage.

Doh! I was thinking you were talking about the mass of wires and screw connector blocks from the valves to the boiler. Silly me.

There are 3 wires going to the pump - first thing I checked when I thought the pump wasn't running but all power is getting there. Now to see if the pump is fed from the boiler - I think that is what you are getting at.

Now 175v DC is the ignition feed I take it....

Bloody thing has been running Ok for 2 days now but the boiler went out at 20:15 tonight. Advanced the controller to OFF for both HW & CH for 20 mins. Then advanced it to ON for both circuits and it lit and ran for another hour or so when the burner went out again but the fan keeps running and the potentiometer (thermostat control) on the boiler is completly defunct - won't swith when set to higher temp - nothing. Switch the whole thing off and on again after 20 mins and it works. When correct (?) temperature is reached the boiler stops completly - no fan and if I raise the temperature threshold now (boiler of in normal operating mode) you will hear a "click" and it starts up. Turn it back and it stops and goes to sleep again.

Weird.

I'll do these checks on Monday (or Sunday afternoon)

Steve.

 

[stevecaner3546]

The boiler terminal block is behind the panel where the boiler thermostat is, it wont be in a 5"*5" junction box.
you can access the gas valve via the bottom panel, to check for the voltage.

Finally found an expert well 1/2 an expert - read below.

Doh! I was thinking you were talking about the mass of wires and screw connector blocks from the valves to the boiler. Silly me.

Now 175v DC is the ignition feed I take it.... .

Called British Gas in the end - if they can't fix it nobody can - I thought.

Well... Guy turned up @ 15:15 and checked the system - ****ed about until 18:00 and decided her needed a better class of expert to help him. Left us with No CH or HW Monday night. Actually he made six or seven phone calls to someone and I heard him ask about what the valve wire colours do and another saying that he could only get 150V.DC - obviously he needed the 175V.DC but it works now.

Turned up again @ 10:00 mob handed (3 blokes). Dived into the system and came to a similar conclusion as myself - the guy 3 owners ago was a total loser.

However, after a couple of hours they traces the intermittent fault to ----------- a dodgy NEUTRAL.

They rewired the Neutral and valves - re-checked everything and left.

Now I have (or I hope I have) independent HW and CH a full running boiler - apparently nothing wrong with the boiler and controller (they swapped that first and put my old Landis & Stafea unit back as it's better than the British Gas one).

I'll update this tomorrow as I want to wait to see if it packs up tonight at 20:30 as it has been doing.

Thanks for all the help and remember - dodgy NEUTRAL - we learn something every day - well these 3 guys said they did.

Steve

 

[stevecaner3546]

The boiler terminal block is behind the panel where the boiler thermostat is, it wont be in a 5"*5" junction box.
you can access the gas valve via the bottom panel, to check for the voltage.

Finally found an expert well 1/2 an expert - read below.

Doh! I was thinking you were talking about the mass of wires and screw connector blocks from the valves to the boiler. Silly me.

Now 175v DC is the ignition feed I take it.... .

Called British Gas in the end - if they can't fix it nobody can - I thought.

Well... Guy turned up @ 15:15 and checked the system - p****d about until 18:00 and decided he needed a better class of expert to help him. Left us with No CH or HW Monday night. Actually he made six or seven phone calls to someone and I heard him ask about what the valve wire colours do and another saying that he could only get 150V.DC - obviously he needed the 175V.DC but it works now.

Turned up again @ 10:00 mob handed (3 blokes). Dived into the system and came to a similar conclusion as myself - the guy, 3 owners ago, was a total loser.

However, after a couple of hours they traced the intermittent fault to ----------- a dodgy NEUTRAL.

They rewired the Neutral and the HW & CH valves - re-checked everything and left.

Now I have (or I hope I have) independent HW and CH a full running boiler - apparently nothing wrong with the boiler and controller (they swapped that first and put my old Landis & Stafea unit back as it's better than the British Gas one).

I'll update this tomorrow as I want to wait to see if it packs up tonight at 20:30 as it has been doing.

Thanks for all the help and remember - dodgy NEUTRAL - we learn something every day - well these 3 guys said they did.

Steve

Well - so far so good. Warm house, boiler going on and off as it should, controller running as it should, Independent HW & CH as was after the boiler was fitted in 2004.

Steve

 

[stevecaner3546]

Hi Folks

Thanks again for all your help - it was educational and helpful. However, following the rewireing of the system by British Gas because of a dodgy neutral wire the original or a similar problem to the original problem manifested itself. The boiler wouldn't ignite fully - pilot light but no main burners.

British Gas guy recognized it instantly as a possible blocked or slightly blocked pilot jet stopping the PCB sending the signal to the gas valve to open. Apparently the pilot jet flame, if slightly askew, misses the sensor and causes this problem.

He cleaned it out and put it all back together and now everything is great and one other benefit is that I can now turn the boiler thermostat down a good 20% without any noticable effect on heat output. Must be cheaper to run now.

Steve