Potterton Kingfisher Mf CFL 70
- Thread starter stevecaner3546
- Start date
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I did exactly what you suggested and I will add that is what the gas/plumber did when he came and said "I can't fix it - it isn't broken" as it was running OK at the time.
Both valves open and close - room stat switches on and off (kills boiler etc when off) Both HW & CH off at programmer and both valves appear to close (Remember I am no expert on these) the little motors wirrr and the little lever moves and the boiler goes off.
I had it OFF most of the day and only ran it with the CH + 1hour button and it always came on and rads got hot - obviously it went off after an hour but when it got a bit cooler ( maybe 3/4 hr or 1 hr later) I pressed the + 1 hour button and it came on as normal.
Tonight I thought I'd put it on auto for the evening but after an 2 hours it started messing about - noise from boiler as if it was alight and running but only a pilot light - rads cool. Turned ift off at controller - waited 1/2 hour +1 hour button - boiler lit and ran Ok for about 3/4 hour then main burner died but still had pilot (as you know pilot goes out when boiler is off). Just left it on AUTO for the morning. Let's see if I wake up to a warm bathroom or a slightly warm bathroom.
Steve
Steve
ffs, I cant help when all you do is say, "I've done that it works"
eg I said "turn CH and HW to off at the programmer.
Do both the valves shut AND boiler go off?"
you replied, "I did exactly what you suggested and I will add that is what the gas/plumber did when he came and said "I can't fix it - it isn't broken" as it was running OK at the time. "
Both valves open and close - room stat switches on and off (kills boiler etc when off) Both HW & CH off at programmer and both valves appear to close (Remember I am no expert on these) the little motors wirrr and the little lever moves and the boiler goes off. I didnt want all this, one test/check at a time may find the problem, on-off-on-off doesn't help 1 iota.
I really do give up
eg I said "turn CH and HW to off at the programmer.
Do both the valves shut AND boiler go off?"
you replied, "I did exactly what you suggested and I will add that is what the gas/plumber did when he came and said "I can't fix it - it isn't broken" as it was running OK at the time. "
Both valves open and close - room stat switches on and off (kills boiler etc when off) Both HW & CH off at programmer and both valves appear to close (Remember I am no expert on these) the little motors wirrr and the little lever moves and the boiler goes off. I didnt want all this, one test/check at a time may find the problem, on-off-on-off doesn't help 1 iota.
I really do give up
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bu66er, thought you would have been in bed, or down the pub.
Off at programmer - bothe valves appear to close and boiler goes off. That's what you asked and that's what I did and so did the plumber guy.
I give up too at this rate I'll go back to coal fires and 2 jumpers.... Bring back London Smog at leat we didn't have any central heating to worry about.
Steve
Steve, your problem really must be quite simple.
I appreciate you may not know and that plumber you does not know but the reality is that its a very simple system and any faults must by deduction also be simple.
Tony
I appreciate you may not know and that plumber you does not know but the reality is that its a very simple system and any faults must by deduction also be simple.
Tony
Simple? That's what I thought then it got too cold so I called in an "expert(?)" but before that I tried a bit of logical thinking - I first thought the pump had packed in after 2 years but on checking there it was wirring away merrily as it should... couldn't believe it. Then I thought the tank stat so I turned it up and down and the HW valve opend and closed - well it made a noise so I presumed it was working (and the "expert" said it was working).
Then I dragged out the Potterton manual and traced the fault finding flow diagram down to where it said "boiler doesn't get to operating temperature (sometimes it does) and the book suggested check the wiring from PCB to temp sensor then replace temp sensor then replace potentiometer (boiler thermostat control) then replace control unit (PCB) but it works sometimes like it's working now from 06:30 this morning.
So what SIMPLE thing can it be - can it be as simple as a loose wire from the CH valve not switching the boiler on? or can it be as simple as the controller/timer - after all there are only 2 relays in there and they either make contact or don't and that seems to be working OK and the room stat (why are these used?) clicks on and off so that works (boiler goes on and off).
What's next ----- main gas valve?
Happy new year and if you know a real live expert in West Sussex please tell me who they are.
Steve
If the fan runs continually at times with out the boiler firing up it is obviously a fault with the boiler. Being a cracked circuit board or loose pin connection or the main solenoid coil on the gas valve faulty or pilot electrode assembly is dirty. These faults would cause intermittent failure to fire the boiler. There should be 175dc voltage at the main gas valve while fan is running,
if fan runs with no gas alight
dirty fan or housing
faulty aps
faulty pcb
faulty gv
you need a competant gas engineer to carry out a few basic diagnostic tests on boiler
dirty fan or housing
faulty aps
faulty pcb
faulty gv
you need a competant gas engineer to carry out a few basic diagnostic tests on boiler
Yes I know that I need a competant gas engineer but where do you find these guys?
All joking apart - I asked if a faulty aps (air pressure switch?) could cause this and was laughed down at the suggestion.
PCB comes in as a last resort on the Potterton fault finding list and as the gas valve works for 90% of the time - like it working perfectly since 06:30 today - it leaves me flaberghasted!!!!!!!.
How do you know if a gas engineer is competant? After watching "Watchdog" on BBC TV it makes one very wary of adverts.
Steve
that is the difficult part, finding a competant rgi and not a parts changer.
family and friends can be a good place to start (sometimes)
or if money is tight go for a fixed price repair from Potterton (assuming they will come out to an old MF)
If it requires a fan or PCB or gas valve they are all quite pricey items.
family and friends can be a good place to start (sometimes)
or if money is tight go for a fixed price repair from Potterton (assuming they will come out to an old MF)
If it requires a fan or PCB or gas valve they are all quite pricey items.
You seem to have had two problems! You seem to imagine that any old plumber is an expert on heating systems. He will probably also be an expert at unblocking your toilet. You need somebody who can call himself a heating engineer, not just a pliumber who is gas registered but someone who specialises in boilers and heating systems and is very good with electronics.
You also seem to think that you are also an expert and so instead of doing simple tests and reporting the results you want to add what you think about it. We dont need that, all we want is a simple answer to the result of tests that we request.
Those TV programs are for entertainment and they select known incompetents so that we can laugh at them. They are NOT representative of the industry. It would not make good viewing to watch 19 doing a proper job. Its the 20th who cannot find a simple fault or overcharges that gives the fun.
They are set up with actresses who pretend to be very gulible and have no problem paying exhorbitent costs. They are not real customers!
Tony
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