Potterton Suprima 60 fails to ignite

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17 Oct 2009
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Hampshire
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United Kingdom
Hi all,

Thanks to ollski and Paul yesterday.

I still have the same fault with the ignition of my Suprima 60 can anyone suggest another angle of attack.

Fault:
With mains power on Red LED flashes, press reset green LED on, fan runs green LED flashes, then flashes faster as ignition cycle takes place no spark from electrode. This cycles twice more then fan cuts out and red LED flashes. Once the boiler is back to a red flashing LED gas can be smelt from around the electrode area.

Continuity of all major components outside the PCB checks out, continuity of tracks and components on PCB and re-soldering as far as possible check out.

Electrode, electrode lead, thermister, and overheat stat have been changed.

PCB is a re-con, worked ok for a few weeks then system started to degrade, not comming on with timer in the morning, locking out during the day but would work after re-set, then eventualy lost spark even if re-set was pushed.

Using an independant ignition spark the burner lights and runs normal, C/H flow is achieved as normal until heat exchanger reaches its stat cut off. when heat exchanger cools below the stat the boiler cycles to run again. without using independant ignition spark, no spark at the electrode.

Surely this points to the spark generator, (a new PCB I fear)

Im stummped, any takers please.
 
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yeah new pcb from the sounds of it. remove the pcb and check for scorching on the pcb where he ignition lead is.
 
Had PCB off yesterday, no scorching behind ignition lead.

Anyone know the part No for the spark generator on PCB?

Can find every other potterton PCB spark generator but mine.

Circuit board G C 114-954 part No 407750
 
It's not a seperate part, if the spark generator is gone you need a new board. Why not phone bg? you get a board, fitted with a 12 month guarantee for 170 odd quid if that's the fault.
 
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ollski fanks,

170 squid is 170 squid if thats what it takes then it will have to be.

I have a couple of option pending will let you know if I have any luck so others can save a few quid in the future.
 
Have you considered the ignition lead and electrodes.
I understand the lead can be at fault by shorting or causing a spark but not where you want it at the electrodes. Also is the gap size correct and is it the correct position. Can you see or hear any arcing
 
Thanks Mandate,

yes electrode and HT lead both replaced and checked, lead not shorting and no spark at ignition cycle.
 

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