Power for an Island Cooker Hood?

[sergeantash]

I'm planning my kitchen electrics layout and I'm a little stuck as to the best way to provide power to an island located Cooker Hood.

From where the hood will drop from the ceiling, there's a conveniently located ring circuit cable for upstairs which I could splice into and provide a single switched socket in the ceiling within the hood canopy? Although I appreciate that it wouldn't really be best practice to mix upstairs/downstairs appliance on a floor-dedicated ring.

Appreciate your ideas/views/advice.

 

[pjcomp]

"Best practice" and practicalities don't always coincide, especially when doing refurbishments or retrofits, like this. An alternative could be to come off the lighting circuit - cooker hoods usually only want a 3A or 5A fuse, check the installation instructions

PJ

 

[sergeantash]

"Best practice" and practicalities don't always coincide, especially when doing refurbishments or retrofits, like this. An alternative could be to come off the lighting circuit - cooker hoods usually only want a 3A or 5A fuse, check the installation instructions
PJ

Thanks for your reply, you're absolutely right about the two never coinciding!

The appliance is indeed a 3-amp fused appliance, the installation instructions require that the device is attached upstream from a double-pole switched FCU, but would this FCU only be necessary if feeding it from the light radial? If it was plugged into a ceiling mounted socket it would be fused and switchable for isolation.

My CU is fully RCD protected.

 

[EFLImpudence]

The appliance is indeed a 3-amp fused appliance, the installation instructions require that the device is attached upstream from a double-pole switched FCU

Can be all in one - Double Pole Switched Fused Connection Unit

but would this FCU only be necessary if feeding it from the light radial? If it was plugged into a ceiling mounted socket it would be fused and switchable for isolation.

Only necessary if on lighting circuit or hard-wired.
Not necessary if using a socket and plug.
3A fuse is necessary because the manufacturer says so - it may only have 6A wiring.

My CU is fully RCD protected.

Good, but nothing to do with what your asking.
You may have had to fit an RCD if installing new cables.

 

[PrenticeBoyofDerry]

If you are planning the new layout of your kitchen, can I assume that you will installing a new kitchen and walls will be bare or available to route cables and install Switched fused connection units, so you have many options of supply for the hood. As you would ideally locate the switched FCU on a nearby kitchen wall, I would consider what circuit was the most practical to use for the location of the S/FCU.

 

[sergeantash]

Thanks all - I'll have a good look tomorrow for the best route, the upstairs mains ring does run directly above where the island hood will hang, so I may proceed by just adding a single switched socket to the ceiling and putting a plug on the end of the unit as I don't fancy having an FCU elsewhere within the kitchen.

Much appreciated guys.

 

[PrenticeBoyofDerry]

Thanks all - I'll have a good look tomorrow for the best route, the upstairs mains ring does run directly above where the island hood will hang, so I may proceed by just adding a single switched socket to the ceiling and putting a plug on the end of the unit as I don't fancy having an FCU elsewhere within the kitchen.
Much appreciated guys.

That's all well a good but where would the socket outlet be and how accessible would it be for isolation purposes.
If your are installing a new kitchen and planning new electrical work, you may as well do it right.

 

[sergeantash]

Thanks all - I'll have a good look tomorrow for the best route, the upstairs mains ring does run directly above where the island hood will hang, so I may proceed by just adding a single switched socket to the ceiling and putting a plug on the end of the unit as I don't fancy having an FCU elsewhere within the kitchen.
Much appreciated guys.

That's all well a good but where would the socket outlet be and how accessible would it be for isolation purposes.
If your are installing a new kitchen and planning new electrical work, you may as well do it right.

I'd plan to mount a single gang switched socket into the ceiling beside the extractor hood into which the hood will plug - it won't be particularly aesthetic but nor would an FCU elsewhere in the kitchen, and being a 9ft ceiling the socket wouldn't be within general eye-line.

...but you're right and I'll explore other options today, perhaps I'm just being a bit lazy too

 

[ban-all-sheds]

it won't be particularly aesthetic but nor would an FCU elsewhere in the kitchen

I take it therefore that you plan to manage somehow with a kitchen without sockets and switches?

 

[sergeantash]

it won't be particularly aesthetic but nor would an FCU elsewhere in the kitchen

I take it therefore that you plan to manage somehow with a kitchen without sockets and switches?

I'll happily cater for useful daily light switches and sockets, but I don't like the idea of an FCU sitting anywhere within eye-line which will be rarely used/touched.

I did consider however instead of a ceiling mounted socket, I'll position the FCU there, sitting neatly beside the unit (mounted into the ceiling itself).

I'm still scratching my head on this one...

 

[stem]

I'll happily cater for useful daily light switches and sockets, but I don't like the idea of an FCU sitting anywhere within eye-line

That seems strange reasoning, what's the big aesthetic difference?

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• stem
• 23 May 2012
• 1

Light Switch

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• stem
• 23 May 2012
• 1

FCU

 

[sergeantash]

I'll happily cater for useful daily light switches and sockets, but I don't like the idea of an FCU sitting anywhere within eye-line

That seems strange reasoning, what's the big aesthetic difference?

Untitled

• stem
• 23 May 2012
• 1

Light Switch

Untitled

• stem
• 23 May 2012
• 1

FCU

Because this method of switching/isolation is for an island cooker hood - lets face it, it won't get switched that often as the unit itself has controls...

Read my first post.

 

[stem]

You asked for advice, and the advice you have been given is to use an FCU. Unsurprisingly, cooker hood manufacturers also usually give the same advice.

Here's a typical example

"This appliance is fitted with a 3 core mains cable and must be permanently connected to the electricity supply via a double-pole switch having 3mm minimum contact gap on each pole. A Switched Fuse Connection Unit to BS.1363 Part 4, fitted with a 3 Amp fuse, is a recommended mains supply connection accessory to ensure compliance with the Safety Requirements applicable to fixed wiring instructions."

The FCU will be used in that it would be providing overload protection. OK you might not be operating the switch very often, but would you apply the same logic to socket with a freezer plugged in? describing it as never used because you very rarely switch it off or remove the plug.

I did read your first post, you can connect an FCU to your ring, and mounting a plug and socket on your ceiling would be even more ugly especially when supported from a bracket to ensure it's located in its correct orientiation (ie vertically) and putting it "within the hood canopy" as you suggest is a non starter as it is also there to provide isolation in emergency and for maintenance, so the idea is that it is readily accessible and easily identifiable as to its purpose, not hidden from view and inaccessible.

 

[sergeantash]

I did read your first post, you can connect an FCU to your ring, and mounting a plug and socket on your ceiling would be even more ugly especially when supported from a bracket to ensure it's located in its correct orientiation (ie vertically) and putting it "within the hood canopy" as you suggest is a non starter as it is also there to provide isolation in emergency and for maintenance, so the idea is that it is readily accessible and easily identifiable as to its purpose, not hidden from view and inaccessible.

Thanks Stem - I'm not debating whether an FCU should be used or not, I do accept that I either use an FCU or a plug into a switchable socket. Its just a question of which is the most convenient/appropriate.

I'll keep scratching my head today, but with 9ft ceilings a ceiling mounted FCU would actually be quite discreet.

 

[ban-all-sheds]

And hard to reach.

How about a grid with engraved switch and fuse modules for all your appliances - F/F, WM, DW, TD, hood, waste disposal.....?