power trips in garage

I have now sorted my lights issue all are now working:
1 faulty capacitor wiring was also a mess so have changed the unit.
2 water getting into the unit from condensation again replaced unit and re sited so no chance of condensation from metal roof.

I still have no power to my sockets on the ring main, have checked all connections from fuse box to sockets and all are ok.
I have a voltage detector ( not a great one ) it seems no power at all from the fuse box to the ring main but when whoever put this in wired in a separate socket directly next to the fuse box this is not on the ring main but wired into the fuse this works.

So I suspect a break in the wire somewhere could I disconnect the ring main and test for continuity with a multi meter or would the length be too long. or someone with more knowledge if you feel I have missed something please let me know. I am happy to change the consumer unit in the garage if that's the next step. but want to do this as cheap as I can but must be safe.

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You can test for continuity of the the ring final circuit using the low ohms setting on the multi-meter. This is a dead test, so requires safe isolation procedures. I would suggest as you are going to have to work on the fuse board, this is done with complete isolation of the system.
Identify the incoming and outgoing cables of the ring (the additional socket at side of board, is a spur and acceptable but not required for this test procedure, but does tell us by your description that the fuse/breaker is okay)
If you isolate the breaker/fuse I assume this socket goes dead?
Anyway, id cables of the ring then test end to end continuity threw the two live/lines and then through the two neutral conductors, you may as well check the CPC/earth end to end as well. You are looking for a closed circuit on each end to end reading, the live/line and neutral should measure similar values and the CPC about 2/3 greater.
If you get an end to end open circuit on either or both line or neutral, then you can then start to investigate further. The unusual thing for complete power loss to all sockets, would suggest both legs incoming/outgoing have been taken out.
So have you made sure that the conductors are actually making good contact at the terminals at the board?
We did confirm this as a ring and not a radial?
Thanks for the advice yes it's a ring main not radial. Yes had realised I need to isolate the complete system that would not be a good start to the New Year.

The info on the setting on my multimetre was a great help will let you know how I go.

All sorted I now have power back to normal;

it turned out to be when the fuse board was wired one of the ring main wires was outside the small clamp and was just touching. I had checked this 3 times all seemed connected but this time I disconnected each one took the wires out and re connected. it was then I spotted it.

Thanks once again for all the help

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If only one conductor was outside the terminal clamp, then if a ring final circuit, the sockets in theory should have stilled worked, as there would have still been one leg connected, so it is either
* not RFC and a radial.
* or more than one of these conductors was out.
* or it's a spur at the breaker.
* or the ring is and still will be broken elsewhere.

Did you do the end to end tests as I recommended?
How many cables enter the breaker terminal?
Sorry maybe didnt explain myself correctly.

Checking the consumer unit two cable twisted together were at the back of the terminal just about 1mm away from making a connection.
In all 3 wires should be in the connection the spur double box at the side of the consumer unit. When i spotted this and re connected correctly all worked. Seeing this worked I didnt do the end to end test and just plugged in the socket tester that said all connections were then ok.

Should I do the test anyway even though it's working. ?


Just because it's working, doesn't mean it's safe.

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