Preparing for the plasterer...........

[JDLDIY]

I have loads to be done by a plasterer, almost every room will need skimming, so I just want to get the system right as I get about getting the place ready for him.
Firstly, I need to replace some ceilings, what board is recommended and what size, bearing in mind there's only me to put them up on me own?

My skirtings were nailed to back boards some of which are rotten etc so I've removed them. Is it normal to plaster down to the floorboards and then plug and screw skirting on, how is it done normally? If I fill the gaps with one coat or bonding so the plasterer can just skim over, do I leave a gap between the bottom of the plaster and the floorboards?

Many thanks, don't know what I'd do without these forums sometimes.

 

[Gees]

If I where you I would leave the ceilings to the pros.
I once replaced a ceiling with 8 by 4 boards prior to getting a plasterer in.
When He arrived the first thing he did was take it all down and put it up "the right way"

 

[JDLDIY]

Thanks but I'm pretty confident about putting the boards up, I've done it before with no probs. Couldn't be any worse than what I've taken down!

Those 8 by 4 boards must have been hard work, did you use a board lifter?

 

[Richard C]

If possible, I would always advise you discuss preparation with whoever is doing the plastering; almost all will have personal preferences that make the job easier for them. Use 8 x 4 ceiling boards & put them up in one piece if at all possible. I’m sure some are able to put them up alone but I get the wife to help; all she has to do is make sure my home made lifter/prop (knocked up from 4” x 2” studding) doesn’t fall over while I support the other end (I prefer to use a large yard broom head up!) & initially put in enough screws to support the board. It works surprisingly well once you’ve developed a technique & done a couple; or you can hire proper lifters. Use drywall screws (not nails) spaced around 150mm, make sure the board joints are supported in the centre of a joist & stagger the joints across the joists. If over boarding, stagger the new boards so they cover any existing joins/cracks in the old ones; use reinforcing tape over all the board joints.

It’s important the general condition of the existing wall plaster is suitable for over skimming; if it’s badly cracked or blown you may need to do some preparation work first as no amount of skimming will rectify a poor base. To fill the hole left by the backboards; if it’s blocks behind there, PVA & use Bonding but if it’s more than around 10mm thick do it in 2 coats or it will crack; I wouldn’t touch one coat I think it’s truly awful stuff. If it’s a timber sole plate at the bottom, fix some plasterboard to it first & then put the bonding over that, as above; if you apply bonding straight onto the timber it will crack & most likely fall off! Skim out to the current plaster level so the finish skim will cover it; I would also put some reinforcing tape over the join. Leave a gap of around ½” between the floor & the bottom of the plaster; I do this by initially plastering right down to floor level & then I run an old trowel around the bottom (to remove the plaster) when it’s firm but not set; it leaves a nice flat & neat edge to support the skirting. Paint the new skirting first & use grab adhesive to fix; I’ve tried several brands & some are useless but found B&Q’s own brand as good as any.

 

[diyisfree]

I always use 8x4 on the ceiling. But it all depends if you can get them to the room where they are to be fitted. Not always possible.

 

[Bilioustrumpstaine]

It is a must to discuss with your plasterer as to how much prep he will let you do, I have worked with some that will want to do all the prep themselves to ensure a good finish.

 

[roughcaster]

It is a must to discuss with your plasterer as to how much prep he will let you do, I have worked with some that will want to do all the prep themselves to ensure a good finish.

Absolutely.The prep is part of the plasterers job, apart from stripping paper etc, but I never agree to customers fitting beads or tapes etc, or breaking away old plaster.

Roughcaster.

 

[spongey]

i would have a word with your spread first. if it was me i would allow you to do this and this only and that if it needs to be taken down i am paid to alter your mistakes.

on that context i would allow you to do it. but everything else, taping beads etc i would want to do myself.

i always use 8 x 4 and 12.5 mm i only use 9's where it is not feasible to fix a 12.5 board. i also noggin any part of joists that the edge of the board may fall inbetween (less cuts = neater edges and better finish).

i issue guarantee's with all my work and therefore want to do it all myself to ensure that it is perfect.

if you insisted on boarding it yourself then i would not issue you with a guarantee.