Preparing tilebacker board

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Hello and thanks in advance for your help.

I am tiling a new built bathroom in my loft extension. Three of the walls are partition walls and I intend to use tile backer board as recommended by so many people here.

Could somebody tell me exactly how I prepare the tile backer board ie the best way to fix it and also whether it needs a bonding agent. The tiles are large ie 1000mm x 330mm, 10mm thick and made from ceramic. A powder flexible adhesive will be used and tiles back buttered.


I also have a second question please.

One of the walls is a solid external wall. This was constructed as block and then finished internally with hard wall/bonding. I have already tiled straight onto this. The tiles seem to have taken well and I know I should have asked this before I did it but is this ok?

Thank you for your help
 
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Three of the walls are partition walls and I intend to use tile backer board as recommended by so many people here.
I assume stud partiton, if so insulate walls, measure cur boards to suitable lengths and screw up every 6-8 inch, leaving the screw slightly counter sunk.
Stagger if boards if possible, tape up joints.
The tile backer will need no prep work, you can tile straight on to them.
What size notched trowel are you using?
Did you prep the plastered wall?
 
Three of the walls are partition walls and I intend to use tile backer board as recommended by so many people here.
I assume stud partiton, if so insulate walls, measure cur boards to suitable lengths and screw up every 6-8 inch, leaving the screw slightly counter sunk.
Stagger if boards if possible, tape up joints.
The tile backer will need no prep work, you can tile straight on to them.
What size notched trowel are you using?
Did you prep the plastered wall?


Thanks for your response. No I didn't prep the bonded wall! What should I have done?

The trowel size is 10mm. Just out of interest is a notched trowel really essential. I have a friend who did his tiling without a notched trowel and all the tiles are level and seem very solid.

Thanks again
 
The wall should have been primed, I would have suggested that you read the manufacturers recommendations that came with the adhesive.
A notched trowel also you to get an even screed for contact and also allows for a little contact movement where just laying it on will not.
 
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Thanks.

Since the tiles seemed to have taken very well and are rock solid can I assume that I've got away with it this time?
 
I've been away for a few weeks so this work has been on hold. Could somebody please tell me

1) What thickness of backerboard I should use for the walls?

2) What should I use to tape the joints?

Thanks
 
1) What thickness of backerboard I should use for the walls?
Use 12/12.5mm boards only for walls. Mechanically fix boards that are being tiled, don’t just rely on dot & dab adhesive or the whole lot could end up on the floor.

2) What should I use to tape the joints?
You can use glass fibre plasterboard reinforcing tape; work the tile adhesive well into the tape mesh immediately before tiling.

Reading your thread from the start, you’ve made some potentially disastrous mistakes that could ultimately lead to tile failure;

• With the exception of Thistle Tough Coat, Thistle base plasters are not suitable as a tile base.

• 10mm thick tiles are way over the 20 kg/sqm weight limit (including 4 kg/sqm for adhesive/grout) for finish plaster let alone unsuitable base coat plaster.

• Gypsum plaster or plaster board must be acrylic primed before using cement based adhesive. Failure to prime will lead to a reaction between the cement in the adhesive & gypsum in the plaster & the tiles could eventually fall off, especially in a wet area.

I would advise you read the Tiling sticky & Tiling Forum archive posts, it may prevent you making further disastrous & potentially expensive mistakes.

Only ever use a notch trowel of the correct size for your tiles & adhesive or you won’t get the correct adhesive coverage under the tiles.
 

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