Pressure Testing Heating System

[PerpetualLeakingRoof]

Hi guys,

We are in the process of fitting our central heating system and would like dry test it before we connect it up. We have one radiator conected at the moment which leaked the first couple of times we filled the system hence the disire to dry test before filling the next lot with water.

I've been searching around on-line for the correct equipment but I'm a bit confused about exactly what we need. I assume we need one of these

http://www.toolstation.com/shop/Plu...eporting/Basic+Dry+Test+Kit/d20/sd2752/p22400

to measure the pressure and something like this to pressurize the system

http://www.toolbaydirect.co.uk/product_info.php?catid=134&id=4059

It's the pump that has me confused really. How come they are so expensive? Surely they are basically just the same as a foot pump for a car tyre. I was also wondering why the pump goes up to 50 bar. That seems completely overkill for a domestic heating system which only goes to maybe 4 bar max.

 

[sloppytom]

i would use them on commersial or industrial premises and threaded steel systems. they can also pump water as well. bet a foot pump would do job if can find way to attach it.
I prefer to just run around and check everywhere but then i never get any leaks

 

[sloppytom]

i would use them on commersial or industrial premises and threaded steel systems. they can also pump water as well. bet a foot pump would do job if can find way to attach it.
I prefer to just run around and check everywhere but then i never get any leaks

 

[PerpetualLeakingRoof]

Ok, I've read some most posts now and I have come to the conclusion that air testing central heating pipes is a bad idea. The copious amounts of pumping and explosion risk aside I would rather not be in the situation of getting a false positive due to a dry joint somewhere.

So, what about this piece of kit>

http://www.toolstop.co.uk/rothenberger-6.1130-30-bar-testing-pump-rp30-p1861

I've checked out the manufacturers website looking for an instruction manual but there isn't one. I presume that I fill the pipes with water, connect this kit up (a photo in the brochure shows it connected to the top of the radiator) and then pressurize the system. Wait 30 minutes to see if the pressure drops then drain the system. Sound about right?

I don't think I need a separate pressure gauge because the equipment appears to already have one which I think will be accurate enough.

 

[sloppytom]

if your fitting a combi it will have a pressure gauge on it anyway.

and an open vented system is a will hardly exsert any pressure on joints

 

[Onetap]

I've checked out the manufacturers website looking for an instruction manual but there isn't one. I presume that I fill the pipes with water, connect this kit up (a photo in the brochure shows it connected to the top of the radiator) and then pressurize the system. Wait 30 minutes to see if the pressure drops then drain the system. Sound about right?

I don't think I need a separate pressure gauge because the equipment appears to already have one which I think will be accurate enough.

Yes.

It usually needs only a few strokes of the pump to get it up to pressure, if you've got most of the air out. For witnessed commercial pressure tests it is usual to have a separate calibrated gauge on the system; the pump is disconnected, to prevent naughty plumbers pumping the pressure up again as it falls.

I have used a car foot pump, but you have to immerse it in a tank of water. They usually have 1/4" BSP connections; you can connect it with hydraulic brake hoses if you have any lying about. You could use mains water pressure if it's high enough. The loss of pressure indicates a leak. It's usual to pressurize the system to 1 1/2 to 2 x the working pressure to prove it will not fail in normal use.