Hi,
First time poster here but have been reading the forum for a while to get tips. Thanks so far......
I have a problem that is well documented on here and elsewhere but just not sure of the best way to get it resolved.
We moved house about 5 months ago and have inherited a Potterton Suprima 40
We have been experiencing what i believe to be the common lockout problem where i have to reset the boiler and things kick back in. Today though we have had a new problem where I have to turn off the boiler at the mains, turn on the water & heating, turn the boiler back on, it fires up for about 4 minutes and then the green light flashes. After a bit of research this indicates the boiler thinks it is hot enough. If i turn the water off it goes back to lockout and the process starts again.
All i want to do is put the heating on for a bit!
So, if you're still awake after reading all that (thanks) is this the same issue that is resolved by replacing the pcb? Or is it a separate issue?
If it is, are new pcb boards more successful that reconditioned ones? I can't find anything conclusive that suggests the best route.
Thanks a lot in advance for any help or advice.
Steve
First time poster here but have been reading the forum for a while to get tips. Thanks so far......
I have a problem that is well documented on here and elsewhere but just not sure of the best way to get it resolved.
We moved house about 5 months ago and have inherited a Potterton Suprima 40
We have been experiencing what i believe to be the common lockout problem where i have to reset the boiler and things kick back in. Today though we have had a new problem where I have to turn off the boiler at the mains, turn on the water & heating, turn the boiler back on, it fires up for about 4 minutes and then the green light flashes. After a bit of research this indicates the boiler thinks it is hot enough. If i turn the water off it goes back to lockout and the process starts again.
All i want to do is put the heating on for a bit!
So, if you're still awake after reading all that (thanks) is this the same issue that is resolved by replacing the pcb? Or is it a separate issue?
If it is, are new pcb boards more successful that reconditioned ones? I can't find anything conclusive that suggests the best route.
Thanks a lot in advance for any help or advice.
Steve