Problem with damp

[Nick.]

Hi,

I am facing an issue with this damp and I am getting to the end of my wits end with this and it is getting very annoying very fast...

I've applied some damp proof paint which hasn't worked, it's still came through, within about 12 hours of applying the chemical on the wall, we've recently had our roof redone, new ventilation ridges, cellotex and repointed with about 15 new tiles, we had some plastic black stuff going to the gutters as well now that had been installed with new wood to hold the tiles and felt also.

We've literally only been in this house for around 8 weeks and this has been the course of it, just a consistent battle with this and it's annoying the hell out of me...

It's not just this part of the wall, the skirting board has started pealing from the wall also, it would seem to be 'rising' damp - but I wouldn't have thought so as the downstairs is absolutely fine and without a problem like the upstairs.

This is our room, my son's room has 'very' tiny spots all over the place.

The roof is damp, I've insulted from advice from the builder, which said we can put as much as we want in as it's so breathable now, he did say it'll take a few weeks to completely dry out the house, though, it's been over two weeks now...

 

[vinn]

What you have in the pic is "Black Spot" condensation - if you keep the furniture away from the wall(s) & have a little 24/7 trickle venting and heating for a few weeks it might clear up.
Rising damp only appears in ground floor situations but penetrating damp can appear at higher levels.

So called "Damp Proof" paints are typically useless. - oil paint might be considered one of the most "damp proof" but it will cause further difficulties and eventually be blown off the finished surface.

Has any re-plastering or re-wiring taken place since you moved in?
Are the walls in question solid plaster or Dot & Dab?
Are the walls solid or cavity?
Is the outside rendered.

Perhaps you've already moved your son from the damp room but if not then its, to my mind, essential to let the child sleep in a non-affected room - condensation can affect bedding.

 

[Nick.]

What you have in the pic is "Black Spot" condensation - if you keep the furniture away from the wall(s) & have a little 24/7 trickle venting and heating for a few weeks it might clear up.
Rising damp only appears in ground floor situations but penetrating damp can appear at higher levels.

So called "Damp Proof" paints are typically useless. - oil paint might be considered one of the most "damp proof" but it will cause further difficulties and eventually be blown off the finished surface.

Has any re-plastering or re-wiring taken place since you moved in?
Are the walls in question solid plaster or Dot & Dab?
Are the walls solid or cavity?
Is the outside rendered.

Perhaps you've already moved your son from the damp room but if not then its, to my mind, essential to let the child sleep in a non-affected room - condensation can affect bedding.

Hi,

Thank you so much for your reply, It's much appreciated.

Our windows do not have any trickle vents on, every morning they're filled with condensation, she is not very happy with it.

We haven't re-plastered yet, we was considering getting the room done - we was also considering knocking the wall out completely and getting new windows with new brickwork, this was one of our ways to try and combat, we have to get the house rewired as they're is no earth in the light switches.

I have no idea what "Are the walls in question solid plaster or Dot & Dab?" is, I am sorry! However, I have done a lot of filling to the walls my self with ready mix plaster.

They're cavity walls, the house was built in 1970's - EDF have already filled the walls as well, but they haven't done the gabelends? is that normal?

The outside of the house is rendered, yes with a gravel like thing, It's also cracked as well, I have just pulled out a virgin media cable as I thought this might initially been a problem - I have then filled the hole with mastic getting in as far as I could to make sure the hole is filled - Which I could see white stuff on the outside so it obviously filled all the way.


before we had the roof done, the entire sealing was leaking wet with water coming down from the roof, again, we've had it done now and it still seeming to happen..the loft is very damp and every time you open up the hatch it drips with water..

 

[vinn]

Was any of this mentioned in the mortgage surveyor's report?

I can respond to your items but perhaps, at the end of the day, you might be well advised to get a RICS surveyor in - a surveyor who claims to specialise in damp problems.

Research on here for how the house occupants can cause much condensation by life style and habits etc.
A 1970's house would have cavity wall insulation - if the render is breached then damp can possibly cross the cavity to the inner skin - and in crossing the cavity it would soak the insulation. However, we dont know yet exactly whats going on with render/cavity etc.

Dot & Dab is plasterboard stuck to masonry walls, solid plaster is applied directly to the wall.

Ref. the loft: on the face of it, it appears that humid air from below is going up into the loft space and condensing up there due to the lack of ventilation and the low temperature.
500mm of insulation is recommended in the loft floor and the access trap to be sealed and insulated.

Using binoculars will enable you to see more up on the render or roof.

 

[Nick.]

So called "Damp Proof" paints are typically useless. - oil paint might

Was any of this mentioned in the mortgage surveyor's report?

I can respond to your items but perhaps, at the end of the day, you might be well advised to get a RICS surveyor in - a surveyor who claims to specialise in damp problems.

Research on here for how the house occupants can cause much condensation by life style and habits etc.
A 1970's house would have cavity wall insulation - if the render is breached then damp can possibly cross the cavity to the inner skin - and in crossing the cavity it would soak the insulation. However, we dont know yet exactly whats going on with render/cavity etc.

Dot & Dab is plasterboard stuck to masonry walls, solid plaster is applied directly to the wall.

Ref. the loft: on the face of it, it appears that humid air from below is going up into the loft space and condensing up there due to the lack of ventilation and the low temperature.
500mm of insulation is recommended in the loft floor and the access trap to be sealed and insulated.

Using binoculars will enable you to see more up on the render or roof.

"Was any of this mentioned in the mortgage surveyor's report?" They ticked that the house had NO problems what so ever..and was clear of damp, roof and electrical faults..

"
the loft: on the face of it, it appears that humid air from below is going up into the loft space and condensing up there due to the lack of ventilation and the low temperature.
500mm of insulation is recommended in the loft floor and the access trap to be sealed and insulated."

I have insulated the loft to 273mm so far, my self are you saying I might need to get another 4 rolls and do another layer? I go down to wickes and I buy some super loft insulation for £50.

We also have the loft boarded as well - I have laid on top of it.

 

[vinn]

You are in the classic dilemma of using "loft boards" for walking on and storage but the boards will compress the insulation and the insulation will then lose some of its thermal properties. I can only repeat the recommended depth of insulation is 500mm.
There are other ways of insulating your loft but they involve extra work and far more expense.

FWIW, it would be worth your time to carefully examine the loft roofing for signs of any leaks - it would be difficult with dripping condensation.

Also check that the insulation has not blocked off any eaves ventilation.

 

[endecotp]

Do you have extractor fans in the kitchen and bathroom?
How do you dry clothes?

 

[Nick.]

You are in the classic dilemma of using "loft boards" for walking on and storage but the boards will compress the insulation and the insulation will then lose some of its thermal properties. I can only repeat the recommended depth of insulation is 500mm.
There are other ways of insulating your loft but they involve extra work and far more expense.

FWIW, it would be worth your time to carefully examine the loft roofing for signs of any leaks - it would be difficult with dripping condensation.

Also check that the insulation has not blocked off any eaves ventilation.

We've just had the roof redone, repointed, new felt new tiles and new breathable ridge system installed along with new wood to hold the tiles, plus it's been repointed, this was hopefully going to solve this problem.

Do you have extractor fans in the kitchen and bathroom?
How do you dry clothes?

In the kitchen, yes, the bathroom we leave the window open and close the door behind it, the bathroom is downstairs as well..

We use the conservatory or the tumble to dry the clothes.

 

[Nick.]

Hi,

To give you an update on this we had a damp expert out today to investigate the course of the issue;- our bedroom is bad, he believes the render is playing a massive part in this, so suggested that we plasterboard up where the damage is, I believe this would be the cheapest and best way he went onto say, and he didn't recommend his company to do this as it'll cost us too much excess over £1k for a little wall done.

He also recommended that we buy the companies 2.5 LTR Warmer wall anti condensation paint - at £53 - I went onto to look at bnq and found the same paint as his for £22.50, so that's what I'd end up doing before I plasterboard over the wall.

We had the roofer back out, and he couldn't understand how there was still massive amount of condensation in the loft after he had ventilated the entire roof for us; he went onto investigate and worked out because the boiler was in a cubby hole in my son's room and that the previous owner put a ventilation point directly to the roof that this was the reason why the entire roof was damp/condensated.

The roofer removed the ventilation from my son's room and put it on the outside of the wall, meaning that the heat now goes directly to my son's room instead of going directly up to the roof, which might be causing the problem with all the water up there.

He also put cellotex on the celling of the room to make sure no heat actually hits the roof now.

I have been advised to plasterboard over the cellotex.

He also advised that we need to put some more insulation in the loft because it's still hitting the celing somewhat. Of which I'd do within the next week or so.

Can anyone advise if this is good advice?

 

[endecotp]

our bedroom is bad, he believes the render is playing a massive part in this

Do you mean external render? Or the internal wall surface?

If it's the external render letting rain through then you need to fix that. Don't hide it behind plasterboard.
Paint with insulating glass spheres in it .... sounds like snake-oil to me, but I'm not a "damp expert".

the boiler was in a cubby hole in my son's room

Do you have a carbon monoxide alarm?

the previous owner put a ventilation point directly to the roof that this was the reason why the entire roof was damp/condensated.

The roofer removed the ventilation from my son's room and put it on the outside of the wall, meaning that the heat now goes directly to my son's room instead of going directly up to the roof, which might be causing the problem with all the water up there.

I'm having trouble visualising all that. Some photos might help.

 

[vinn]

Seeing as you've taken the trouble to bring in a damp guy then why not post some pics as suggested above?
Did the "damp expert" came from a Damp & Timber company - if so all he was an expert in would be selling as he would have been a salesman.

As above ref the CO monitor - you seem to have some funny stuff going on with the flue/venting arrangements for your boiler/compartment: this could be serious stuff so either immediately post pics of whatevers going on there or call in a Gas Safe tech.
Dont delay - it might be a simple matter of the position of an air brick, or something worth catching.