Problems with Ideal Isar HE30

[prp52]

Hello again - had some limited joy with last posting on here - thank you to all who responded as your info was really useful.
Found leaks in the boiler and that the condense pipe from the boiler was kinked at the back of the boiler when first installed (by a local CGI) - this was fixed and boiler cleaned out - sump, condense trap etc...
Still some leaks so we (plumber who is also Corgi chap) put leak seal into the system and reduced the leaks that is
UNTIL now......
I went to India for 2 weeks and came back and the boiler was making very loud "whoomp whoomp" sounds whilst reducing its fan speed - and then eventually the "FL" legend came up on the panel - Flame Detection Error it says in the book....
Plumber cam back yesterday with a new fan just in case - we fitted it - it wasn't the fan........ so we puzzled a bit and then checked gas pressures when it was static and running - nothing odd - well it does light with a bit of an explosion now and then - not really a controlled ignition!
We then took the little white pipe from the upper (sealed) compartment to the gas valve - it had water in it - shook it out and put it back and no more "whoomp whoomp" ............. WELL UNTIL.............
the noise started again and we took the white pipe off and more water - in fact I left it off and water was coming down the nipple that the pipe attached to (sealed upper cabinet) and driping onto the CH pump housing.
The boiler is fine with the pipe off and the water dribbling onto the CH pump but when it is connected up - half an hour and back to "whoomp whoomp" ..............

I called Ideal this morning and I had just the worst ever experience just with the switchboard and now am going to write to the MD - if that will do any good which I doubt!!
Meanwhile the thought is to just replace the boiler with another of the same type (this one is two and half years old that's all!) and have the duff one delivered directly (by me) to the MD with a couple of journalist friends to take pictures and ask why they are so unhelpful and unfriendly!

That however doesn't fix my problem really as I would prefer to not have to spend the best part of £900 for a new boiler and be able to fix this one.......
To that end is there anyone out there who may have an idea or three as to what is wrong and I am fully aware that the main fault is that it is an Ideal Isar - I wish it wasn't and that a Worcester Bosch boiler was in there but it isn't and I am sure that if this is made and sold here it should at least be able to work and be serviced efffectively - it's supposed to be a High Efficiency boiler - ie better than 90% efficient - could we really be kidding ourselves? I'm putting a wood burning stove in my kitchen and then will only run this when vital (probably not at all!)

Thanks for letting me rant and any help would be most welcome

Regards to all

prp52

 

[gas4you]

At a guess I would look for 2 things. The main HE leaking down the left hand side where the large plate is, or a hole that has been caused by the condensate eating through the Aluminimum HE, especially if the sump has been blocked.

As the white pipe is not actually fixed to anything, just open in the bottom of the combustion chamber, there must be water entering from here.

This pipe is to aid the gas valve to lift.

Strangely, for someone who has not usually got a good word about Ideal, I have had enormous help and assistance from 2 of their engineers today, brilliant service.

The main reason was that I was able to avoid their admin at the call centre The actual engineers in the field seem very good

 

[Garfeild]

Check the condensate trap/sump again,if its full/blocked it will make the noise you describe,usually ending up in FL.

Take the combustion cover off and find out where the water is coming from,poss aav leaking and flooding bottom of boiler.Gas valve is usually ruined by water in.I replaced a few after the recent storms.

If its still under warranty,get ideal out.

 

[Kristoflampie]

Check your spark electrode gaps , very common to be warped out of shape with heat, very common also are internal heat exchanger leaks interrupting combustion or light up process.
Gas pressures whilst running should be zero whilst running showing gas valve is delivering right mixture according to fan speed, you can check fan windings resistance ( about 130 ohms) through 2 outside terminals at fan plug.
Also check aluminium combustion chamber has not been holed by flame being redirected by insulation falling into flame below burner, also all too common.......... Good luck