Programmer Wiring

[bouncydog]

Hi,
I have a Gloworm Betacom 24 and a programmer from Floureon. Trying to wire them together. The programmer has wires N1 N L L1 and T1 T2.
Load is N1 and L1.
I am not sure which wire goes where on the boiler. I have asked for a local electrician to come round, but all seem "to busy", guess this job is too small for them.
Any ideas please.

Merry Christmas to one and all.

 

[Blagard]

Hi,
I have a Gloworm Betacom 24 and a programmer from Floureon. Trying to wire them together. The programmer has wires N1 N L L1 and T1 T2.
Load is N1 and L1.
I am not sure which wire goes where on the boiler. I have asked for a local electrician to come round, but all seem "to busy", guess this job is too small for them.
Any ideas please.

Merry Christmas to one and all.

Never heard of a Floureon programmer and google didn't throw anything up either. Did it come with any literature? a model number?

The load is your Boiler. TI T2 are probably your room thermostat connections which may need a link if no thermostat fitted or if the thermostat is wired direct to your boiler.

 

[bouncydog]

Hi, Thank you.
This is a link for the programmer, I suspect it is a generic name anyway.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/321274173050?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649

T1, T2, are for the thermostatic wire, not quite sure what to do with that, connect and dangle?

http://www.glow-worm.co.uk/stepone/data/downloads_sd/ef/00/00/betacom2-instn-serv.pdf

Above is a link for the boiler.

 

[Blagard]

The T1 and T2 are for another sensor so not used.

But before you even think about connecting the new external time switch / room stat, it is necessary to know what is currently connected.

What controls the boiler at the moment?

Do you have an external room thermostat already connected?

Is an external sensor fitted?

If you are not sure then it stops here and you need to get an electrician in. The point being if you don't know what is wired into the boiler, making changes is a non-starter

 

[bouncydog]

The only thing on the boiler is the built in rotary timer. There are no external controls fitted.

 

[Blagard]

The only thing on the boiler is the built in rotary timer. There are no external controls fitted.

Not even a room thermostat?

Edit: If not you are going to need some four core heat resisting flex with 0.75mm2 conductors.

Basically LN&E to the time switch and a switched live return. Technically you could use 3 core but I think it is always good to have the earth available although the switch unit is double insulated so no earth currently required.

Edit I changed the cable size to one that should be OK almost wherever in the house.

 

[bouncydog]

Not even a room thermostat. There is an old one fitted with 3 wires from it, but these have been cut when the kitchen was refitted (before I moved in), I suspect a Honeywell dial type.
The new programmer does not have an 'E' just 2 connections called Sensor and N1, L1 called Load with arrows pointing out and. The N and the L have arrows pointing In.

Do I need a separate Live/Neutral connection at 230v? Then 2 wires go direct to the timer on the boiler?

 

[Blagard]

The L & N on the thermostat/time switch are permanently live. The L1 is a switched live going back to your boiler and you don't need a connection on N1 on the thermostat as you have a neutral on the boiler.

So you see you need a 3 core cable as the thermostat is double insulated and does not actually need an earth. With the wiring going back to the boiler the cable needs to be heat resisting. So I would recommend 3 core heat resisting flex with 0.75mm2 conductors. Personally I would use the 4 core version in case any future thermostat/time switch needs an earth. It also means you do not use the earth core (if it is marked green/yellow) as a switched live.

At the boiler end you need to check what links are in place on the terminals as obviously some-one has been there before!

If a link is fitted across terminals RT and 24V on the 24V terminal block it should be removed - Note this is not the same terminal block as what your mains is connected to. See page 19 on the manual.

On the permanent live and neutral going into the boiler you wire the L & N from the Thermostat / time switch to the same terminals.

The L1 from the Thermostat / time switch is connected to the RT terminal in the boiler (that is the RT on the mains supply block)

Check the documents for your thermostat / time switch as the T1, T2 terminals for an external sensor are not required. It may be you will need to put a link across them if not in use. If nothing is said, simply do not use anything on them, not even the sensor supplied. The room thermostat is built into the time switch so there are no terminals to worry about for that!

Finally any core used for live (including a switched live) should be brown. So use a brown sleeve over the core if it is not already a brown colour. Neutrals should be Blue but you should be able to wire up using the blue on the cable.

 

[bouncydog]

That is brilliant, Thank You. I will get the correct wire/cable and connect this all up.

From the manual, it looks like all the connection is made to one terminal block, see what happens when I get the front off.

I was aware of the 24V link and have found that, but thanks for mentioning it.

Will let you know how I get on.

 

[bouncydog]

Many Thanks for all your help. 3 easy wires and job done.