PRV Replacement

[rad_pete]

Hi all.

So, after my cereal heating issues over the last week I was assuming that my pressure issues were a leak in the system whereas in fact the PRV just constantly dripping out.

Now, it doesn't surprise me that it enagaged as I had a problem with the wireless thermostat which didn't switch off the heating so it just kept on heating until I woke up in the morning!

Having radar through a few posts, some people seem to suggest just replacing the red plastic section and some he entire PRV. Is there any reason not to just replace the while PRV? My boiler is a vokera.

Thanks

 

[ianmcd]

which model of Vokera do you have ? there are loads of them

 

[rad_pete]

yeah sorry, vokera compact 24

 

[ianmcd]

The PRV is very easy to replace on that one on some of the older ones its a real pain and some engineers just replace the spring valve section, but as you have to buy the whole valve anyway and split it there is no point with your boiler, the valve isnt expensive either, but if the water pressure guage is rising to around 3 bar when heating is on then its an expansion fault and the PRV dripping is just doing what its supposed to do

 

[rad_pete]

Thanks, ill keep an eye on tht before I get a new PRV. If there's and and expansion fault, is that something I can diagnose/ repair myself or is it better to get and engineer out at that point?

 

[rad_pete]

Thanks, ill keep an eye on tht before I get a new PRV. If there's and and expansion fault, is that something I can diagnose/ repair myself or is it better to get and engineer out at that point?

 

[Terry lambert]

The expansion vessel will have a shraeder valve.

You need a pump with a gauge, foot pump will do

Check the pressure just like a tyre, check Manu instructions for correct pressure and inflate if incorrect.

If water comes out the bladde is ruptured and the vessel would need replacing or an additional one added to the boiler return

 

[Terry lambert]

You can also sometimes get a blockage on the pipe that connects the vessel, stopping the vessel doing it's job

 

[rad_pete]

Awesome, thanks for those replies. I've been out and got a new PRV given that ill need one anyway, I'll check the expansion vessel pressure on Monday using my digi car tyre pressure gauge.

Thanks guys

 

[rad_pete]

So, here's another one the . The issue with my heating turning off via my horstmann wireless thermostat, I take it that's simply the thermostat at fault ie an expansion vessel issue could cause the heating to not turn off right?

 

[rad_pete]

Hi all.

So, I've checked the expansion vessel pressure and topped it up to 1bar as per manual. No water came out either so does that mean the vessel is ok?

I'm still get leaks out of the old PRV (ain't swapped to the new one yet). Does this then just look like the PRV had to fire because my thermostat didn't shut off? If so, then presumably the pressure dropping that I get is down to the fact that the PRV is still leaking.

With regard to the fitting if a new PRV, does the system need completely designing?

Thanks in advance

 

[Terry lambert]

The prv may have a small bit of grit in there, sometimes you can be lucky and turn the filling loop on, manually open the valve and try to wash it out.

Or just change the prv

Your system wouldn't need re- designing and your stat didn't cause this problem, separate issue

Vessel sounds good

 

[rad_pete]

Sorry, my stupid iPhone Autocorrecting.

I meant to say does the system need draining when I swap out the PRV?

Thanks

 

[Terry lambert]

Drain to at least to below the level of the boiler.

You could isolate the boiler underneath on the flow and return and then just drain the boiler, but isolation valves can leak and then you will have another job to contend with

 

[CBF]

Hi all.

So, I've checked the expansion vessel pressure and topped it up to 1bar as per manual.

but you haven't if you haven't released all the pressure out of the boiler, all you have done is test the pressure in the boiler/heating system not the expansion vessel pressure