Pull Fuse or Turn off Main Switch?

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I'd like to replace some sockets on my ring main.

Is it safe to just remove the fuse on the ring main, so that I can keep the lights on, or should I switch off all the electric at the main switch?

I understand pulling the fuse just disconnects the live wire, but it is still possible to get a shock from the neutral wire. Whereas the main switch disconnects both live and neutral. Is this correct please?

Thanks
 
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I understand pulling the fuse just disconnects the live wire, but it is still possible to get a shock from the neutral wire. Whereas the main switch disconnects both live and neutral. Is this correct please?

Yes, that is the safest way, especially for the inexperienced.
 
With a TN system likely pulling the fuse is OK, with a TT should really isolate, what I do is turn off the RCBO and work on it as if it were live.

Seems odd anyone still has fuses in a fuse box, that went out in the 90's. Also one should turn off the isolator before pulling the fuse, ionisation of the atmosphere can happen when pulling a fuse if there is any current flowing, it is rare, but should turn off isolator before removing the fuse and before re-fitting a fuse.
 
If you have a FUSEbox, there is often an instruction on the box telling you to turn off the main switch before removing fuses.
That then should put the matter beyond doubt!


4E5DE84C-2674-4595-8C12-9F38A4CF82B1.jpeg


I would suggest that, IF you have an old-style FUSEbox, you should first be spending your money bringing the basis of your installation up to date, rather than on cosmetic improvements.
 
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With a TN system likely pulling the fuse is OK, with a TT should really isolate, ....
You've been reading the regs ;)

Can you give me an electrical (rather than regulatory) explanation of the thinking behind your statement?

Kind Regards, John
 
50 volt can still make you jump. But in the main I work with just the single pole switching RCBO turned off, with of course the clip and lock so can't be switched on, and always test for voltage and current before working on the device, I don't use a proving unit, I know I should, but I am a bit lazy, and in my own house don't bother locking off, as no one is going to switch back on.

The biggest risk is likely the borrowed neutral, I hope my clamp on which will measure down to 0.001 amp will alert me, and it also has NCV sensor so even without a reference point I should detect and live wires, I don't know how the NCV works, but it beeps, flashes a red indicator light, and shows 1 to 4 bars on the display, so not a simple reed switch.

I know many feel the NCV testers should be thrown in the bin, but I feel there are very good as a secondary test. Opps sorry NCV = non contact voltage.

But it can miss-lead
1667040498722.png
seen here showing all 4 bars, when put next to a USB charger which should be 5 volt, so it should not have shown any AC voltage, tried 3 power supplies, including the lap top, if I unplugged the lap top charger it stopped, but can't see three independent devices all being faulty, however showing voltage when there is not is better than not showing when there is. No voltage it displays EF.

I always check now since in the late 70's I went to remove a socket which was halfway up a wall, house not occupied so no point removing fuses, I simply turned off main isolator, lucky I was using a neon screwdriver, which alerted me it was live, found it was tapped into next doors supply, houses stepped up the hill which was why half way up the wall, owner of the highest house had left keys with neighbour while on holiday, and he had drilled a hole back of neighbours socket and put his socket where the wires came through, there had been a number of people in the lower house, so no idea when or who did it.
 
50 volt can still make you jump. ....
It can, but nothing you write really helps me to understand why you (and the regs) seem to think that isolation should include the neutral in a TT installation, but only needs to isolate the line/phase in a TN installation.

Can you help me understand the the thinking behind this, particularly in relation to a TN-S installation - since I cannot see any material relevant difference between TN-S and TT in this respect.

Kind Regards, John
 
If you have a FUSEbox, there is often an instruction on the box telling you to turn off the main switch before removing fuses.
That then should put the matter beyond doubt!


View attachment 283985

I would suggest that, IF you have an old-style FUSEbox, you should first be spending your money bringing the basis of your installation up to date, rather than on cosmetic improvements.
It's true I do have an old Wylex fuse box, and at some stage I will have it updated. Although I see no urgency since we have lived in this house for 37 years and never had any electrical problems.

It seems to me that many new regs are often designed to just give jobs to the boys, although I agree a new fusebox would be an improvement.
 
The historic assumption seems to be that an egregiously long and poorly earthed TT neutral can assume a dangerous potential to earth only from load currents on other circuits or adjacent properties. This is why some countries in Europe insist on double-pole MCBs.
 
The historic assumption seems to be that an egregiously long and poorly earthed TT neutral can assume a dangerous potential to earth only from load currents on other circuits or adjacent properties. This is why some countries in Europe insist on double-pole MCBs.
I can but presume that the thinking is something like that (and BS 7671 almost says that), although I would think that the converse would be more likely - that the TT earth would be at approximately true earth potential, whilst the neutral could be appreciably above true earth potential. After all, in the absence of appreciable L-E faults in the installation or those in adjacent properties (which would usually only be very brief), I can't see why the TT earth would come to be appreciably above true earth potential.

In any event, that same argument would seem to apply equally to a TN-S installation, but BS 7671 does not suggest DP isolation for that. TN-C-S is obviously different(since the "N-E" link is within the installation), and I can understand why it could be said that SP isolation is adequate for that.

Kind Regards, John
 

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