Pump constantly on, what could be wrong?

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Hi, May I have some advise please?

I have a Range Tribune system, as shown here, fed by an Ideal Icos HE24.

Heatingsystem.jpg


As can be seen, I have 3 circuits, bathroom radiators (no valve), upstairs and downstairs.

Now the motorised pump on the tribune is on constantly, causing my downstairs circuit to be on, even if I switch off the programmer and room thermostat and cease calling for heat. The only way to stop the pump is to pull the connector, but if I do that the boiler will show "C" for CH/DHW being supplied but with a flashing burner LED in its display.

What could be wrong please? Is it the wiring box? The pump? Or the boiler pcb? And how long would it take to fix?

Thanks in advance
 
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Well, who installed it?

It would take about 10 minutes to correct it.

But perhaps 20-40 minutes to see where its wired wrongly.

If its been correctly wired to the boiler the it could be a boiler fault.

You have not told us about the history! Just installed by yourself?

Just installed by cowboys?

Suddenly gone wrong?

Tony
 
Well, who installed it?

It would take about 10 minutes to correct it.

But perhaps 20-40 minutes to see where its wired wrongly.

If its been correctly wired to the boiler the it could be a boiler fault.

You have not told us about the history! Just installed by yourself?

Just installed by cowboys?

Suddenly gone wrong?

Tony

Sorry. It's 5 years old and been working just fine but went kaput today. So it's a boiler pcb fault?
 
at a guess id say its the sunvic motorised valve (the white 1) is at fault, either the microswitch stuck on or the valve spindle stiff.
try removing the head and checking that the spindle is free, if it is isolate the power and remove the orange wire make safe and test op
 
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Thanks for the reply.

The Sunvic has since been replaced by a Honeywell (as it failed and caused water damage by only

I did try to manually switch off the Honeywell valve on the right to see if that would turn off the pump but I felt resistance whilst pulling the lever to the left and it returned to it's automatic position. The pump kept on going.

There was no such resistance when I did the same on the newer Honeywell valve in the middle pipe.

Is it possible to remove the head on those Honeywell valves and test the spindle as you suggested?

Thanks
 
Yes, but feeling the lever gives the same test if you know what they should feel like.

But if the microswitch was failed/jammed on then I would have expected the boiler will be firing up to keep itself warm or to heat that zone!

Tony
 
Thanks for the reply.

The Sunvic has since been replaced by a Honeywell (as it failed and caused water damage by only

Thanks

That was a quick replacement between 8.34 and 9.10 pm!

Or is it an out of date picture?

Tony
 
yes, if it has a dimple on the silver cover it can be removed without getting wet. they will be 2screws securing the head to the valve body, isolate the mains if you do attempt to check this. honeywell valves rarely become stiff tho.
i would check the orange wires from the valves to see if which (if any) of the valves are at fault
 
if you turn the power off to ya central heating at the fuse spur does the newer valve (the 1 with no resistance on the lever) spring back?
 
yes, if it has a dimple on the silver cover it can be removed without getting wet.

Its apprentice fun to collect dimple covers to fit onto older ones to make a plumber get wet!

Of course more experienced people know how to recognise them from the inside!
 
Yes, but feeling the lever gives the same test if you know what they should feel like.

But if the microswitch was failed/jammed on then I would have expected the boiler will be firing up to keep itself warm or to heat that zone!

Tony

By resistance, I meant the lever pulled to the right to the automatic position when I tried to open it manually to the left. There was no such resistance doing the same on the other Honeywell valve.

The boiler was indeed constantly on whilst the pump was running, until I turned off the boiler but the pump remained on. Does the valve drive/switch the pump/boiler or does the pump drive the valve, if you see what I mean?
 
:LOL: might try that

the comment about 2 screws securing the head would also give the op a clue ;)
 

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