Pump Running, bolier always on, motorised valves - HELP!!!!

[D_Hailsham]

Hi, both are attached to the pipework. The Honeywell has a number stamped on it of 272848. The picture you have is of the other, the Drayton, is exactly the one I have. The problem seems to be very intermittent. The pump was on all last night, as would have been the boiler had I turned the thermostat up, but corrected now, presumably as the programs kick in?

OK, you have two zone valves, a Honeywell and a Drayton. The Honeywell should say V4043H; can you confirm this? It sounds like an "S-Plan" arrangement, but the Drayton Valve is designed for a C plan. This does not matter, provided the valves are wired in correctly. It would be helpful to know which wires are connected up for both valves. It does not matter, at this stage where they are connected.

Here is a diagram of an S plan:

The wiring should look like this:

Sorry, I don't think I can add the snaps I've taken !

Post you photos to a free sharing site, I use www.tinypic.com, then copy and paste the IMG address they give you into your text. The picture will appear like mine above.

 

[bucherdi]

I can't really see the one side of it so it may have that number on - not sure sorry. Not only am I no heating engineer, I'm not much of an electrician either and the wiring is not straight forward! Think I best get someone in who knows what they're doing?

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[D_Hailsham]

Well done for posting the pics; easy when you know how
Though they could have been a bit smaller! Did you check them using the preview facility?

It's a pity you did not take one showing the overall installation (I don't have carpet in my airing cupboard!) as it's impossible to see how things go together.

The Honeywell valve is on a pipe, labelled "Primary Flow", going into a what looks like the hot water cylinder. Am I correct? It's a bit bigger than the usual foam covered cylinder; does it have a manufacturer's name and model no ?

If this is the HW cylinder, the Honeywell valve is controlling the Hot Water temperature (by a thermostat on the side of the cylinder. You should hear the valve motor working when you turn the cylinder stat right down then up until it clicks.

If I am right, the drayton valve is controlling the flow through the radiators and you should hear the valve motor working if you turn the room stat down then up until it clicks.

What idiot installed the Drayton. You are supposed to be able to remove the box on the top in case it needs replacing. Fat chance with that pipe in the way!

If you don't feel comfortable having a go, it will probably be best to call in a heating engineer; but the good ones are very busy so make sure you use someone who has been recommended by auser you can trust.

 

[bucherdi]

Oh, yes, they are quite large arn't they! Here's the full beast, but smaller...

you are correct and it's a Heatrae Sadia Megaflow. Plummers employed by modern builers installed it all and I did think the other day how I'd ever get at it! If you know anyone in the Horsham (west sussex) area who I could use, I think it best I get some professional help - the heating game is something of a black art for me (in case you hadn't noticed!)

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[doitall]

Ok guys and gals hold the bl00dy horses

That valve in the first pic is not an control valve, but an emergency shut-off linked to the thermal cut-out switch.

Time to stop playing bucherdi and get an expert in with a G3 ticket

 

[Softus]

OK, you have two zone valves, a Honeywell and a Drayton. The Honeywell should say V4043H; can you confirm this? It sounds like an "S-Plan" arrangement, but the Drayton Valve is designed for a C plan. This does not matter, provided the valves are wired in correctly. It would be helpful to know which wires are connected up for both valves. It does not matter, at this stage where they are connected.

Fools rush in...

 

[doitall]

I can't see an by-pass for the pump either

 

[Softus]

No worries - I'm sure that D_Hailsham will be back very soon to sort it all out.

 

[D_Hailsham]

get an expert in with a G3 ticket

I agree

 

[Softus]

And how simple would the whole topic have been if the OP had provided the correct information at the beginning, like I asked, instead of him getting arsy and you making snide remarks?

My so-called "childish attitude" was the only responsible attitude, whereas you, charade that you are, were heading down the path of unwittingly and incompetently guiding a novice in modifying a Megflo installation.

Pratt.

 

[bucherdi]

What's a G3 Ticket ?

 

[Softus]

Well you can't be asking me, because you think I'm a berk.

Are you asking the fool who nearly helped you explode your Megaflo?

 

[Balenza]

Ok guys and gals hold the b***dy horses

That valve in the first pic is not an control valve, but an emergency shut-off linked to the thermal cut-out switch.

Time to stop playing bucherdi and get an expert in with a G3 ticket

Its a control valve in a 2 zone valve application. (S plan)
The wiring is identical to Honeywells S plan arrangement except the normal cylinder stat is replaced by a thermal cutout/stat combination . The thermal cut out having to be re-set if the stat fails and an over heat situation occurs.
Details are on megaflows installation instructions if you are unfamiliar with the wiring. (Page 21)
In any case I wasn't aware the cylinder could explode if this control was by-passed.

 

[bucherdi]

Oh, a little confused still - Am i in some sort of danger here ?

 

[doitall]

Oh, a little confused still - Am i in some sort of danger here ?

The Honeywell valve in your picture is a safety device that is connected through the thermal overheat cut-out, and tell the boiler etc its ok to fire up.

It is not an control valve that is part of an S plan.

If you have not wired it through the cut-out then the heat source will not shut down in an emergency