Push button cistern continuously running into pan

[amfisted]

Hi All

When we moved into this property 12 months ago we quickly noticed that after we flushed the push button toilet cistern, water carried on running into the pan. By fiddling with the plastic screws inside the cistern lid I eliminated the problem, but today it started doing the same thing again. Removing and replacing the cistern lid and spraying the button mechanism with WD40 seems to have cured it for now, but I'd like to know how this thing works so that if necessary, I can fix it for good.

Photos below to show the type of set up we have, and any information as to how to adjust the push button mechanism to prevent this happening again gratefully received.

If at any point I want to replace the entire flush mechanism, does the internal gubbins of the cistern look like the type of thing you can easily remove, or will I have to go through the rigmarole of removing the cistern from the pan and buying a close coupled sealing kit?

TIA

 

[Rodders53]

https://www.diynot.com/diy/threads/toilet-wont-stop-flushing-ideal-standard-cistern.582118/ looks to be the same flush mechanism to my eyes.

Most likely is a new washer and clip to replace in the bottom, that seals the water into the cistern and lifts to let water out to flush the pan.

 

[kidgreen61]

Check the fill valve is closing properly first

 

[amfisted]

https://www.diynot.com/diy/threads/toilet-wont-stop-flushing-ideal-standard-cistern.582118/ looks to be the same flush mechanism to my eyes.

Most likely is a new washer and clip to replace in the bottom, that seals the water into the cistern and lifts to let water out to flush the pan.

Thanks for that. Is it possible to remove the flush mechanism from the cistern in order to service it/ replace parts without removing the cistern from the pan first? I believe some of those mechanisms have a twist/ release setup.

 

[amfisted]

Check the fill valve is closing properly first

Pretty sure it is, but probably due a new washer anyhow.

 

[amfisted]

https://www.diynot.com/diy/threads/toilet-wont-stop-flushing-ideal-standard-cistern.582118/ looks to be the same flush mechanism to my eyes.

Most likely is a new washer and clip to replace in the bottom, that seals the water into the cistern and lifts to let water out to flush the pan.

I've just seen the post on that thread you linked to, explaining how to remove the flush mechanism from the cistern. Definitely looks like the same one.

 

[Mr Chibs]

Brother in law had grit in the top of the filler mechanism, that was preventing the seal from closing, so his toilet was constantly emptying.

Opened it up, cleaned it, all was good afterwards... just an idea.

 

[amfisted]

Brother in law had grit in the top of the filler mechanism, that was preventing the seal from closing, so his toilet was constantly emptying.

Opened it up, cleaned it, all was good afterwards... just an idea.

Thank you.

I've just found a good YT video that shows you how to change the washer and clip on this very flush mechanism as well as the diaphragm on the filling side, so all I need now is to purchase a set, and Bob's your Whatsit.

I'll also rinse the mechanism in case there is any grit inside.

Thanks all for the replies.

 

[gas112]

that is an ideal standard flush valve no longer available unless you want to pay about 150 quid on ebay .
Seals and clip are available for about 4 quid .
It just twists out of position .
Or change it for a complete different type but your wing nuts etc might be rusted solid to get cistern off

 

[gas112]

Ideal Standard flush valve seal and seal clip | Wolseley

Looking for a Ideal Standard Flush Valve Seal SV01967? Order from Wolseley today - free delivery or click and collect available nationwide.

www.wolseley.co.uk

 

[amfisted]

that is an ideal standard flush valve no longer available unless you want to pay about 150 quid on ebay .
Seals and clip are available for about 4 quid .
It just twists out of position .
Or change it for a complete different type but your wing nuts etc might be rusted solid to get cistern off

I'd more or less dismissed the idea of buying a new mechanism, but thanks anyhow for the heads up.

I've ordered a seal and clip and I await their arrival with keen anticipation.

 

[amfisted]

Update on the above. Washer and clip arrived yesterday, fitting took about ten minutes. However....after the flush is operated and when the cistern has emptied, there's a loud "clunk" which is presumably the mechanism returning to its pre flush position. I can't recall noticing any such noise in previous operation, so is this a sign that the flush mechanism needs replacing?

I noticed that plumbing retailers who list the existing part ( SV01976/ SV89067, not 100 per cent sure which ) show it as discontinued, and offer an alternative flush mechanism. How straightforward would such a replacement be? Would the cage that the mechanism twists into need to be replaced, and would the push buttons in the cistern lid need altering too?

Incidentally, is the black clip correctly positioned as shown in my photograph above, and what is its function?

 

[gas112]

no the alternative wont fit into cage you will have to take the cistern off the pan and replace the whole lot and yep button will need replacing to but that should come with new syphon

 

[amfisted]

no the alternative wont fit into cage you will have to take the cistern off the pan and replace the whole lot and yep button will need replacing to but that should come with new syphon

Many thanks. What are the dimensions I need to be aware of when ordering a new flush valve? Presumably height of the valve, outlet size....anything else?

 

[amfisted]

Just updating this thread as it might prove useful to someone else. I decided to change the flush valve, so I bought one of these. https://www.screwfix.com/p/fluidmas...-2-button-cable-dual-flush-bottom-inlet/58353

Obviously the job necessitated separating the cistern from the pan, but that proved surprisingly easy, apart from having to saw through the old close couple bolts, which were rusted solid. There was lots of mould on the back of the cistern and rust where the old close couple plate had been, so I gave everything a good clean, fitted a new close couple kit ( the new plate is either plastic or plastic coated metal, so hopefully won't rust) and installed the new valves. One thing I forgot to do was adjust the height of the filler valve before connecting to the water supply, but luckily the new water level is just a few millimetres below the original mark. Had some issues with water hammer on the short flush, so I disconnected the filler and inserted a pressure reducing thingy that I cannibalised from the old filler valve, and that's calmed the filler pressure down nicely.

Some YouTube videos suggest smearing the doughnut washer with silicone, but I'd venture to suggest that this is bad advice. I used NO silicone on any washer, and don't have any leaks. Another video I watched totally ignores the need to clean up all the outlet and inlet surfaces before putting things back together, which would surely result in leaks.

Anyhow, job done and everything's working well.