Question, or two

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Right, well im a training spark and i had a few questions i wanted clearing up.

1, Why does a double insulated load not require an earth, whats so different about it to any other load, i mean why cant you get a shock off it?

2, There are different types of MCB's arnt there? like A,B,C and a few others. Can someone please explain in what senario who i use eash.

3, When bonding a bath room, does a earth have to be taken straight from the mains, but whats happends when there are more than one bathroom? or can it come from the lighting circuit. Also what are the reccomonded size cables used?

4, If wiring a garage, do i take say a 10mm cable to it then wire a seperate smaller mains for it, or do i wire it to the mains with its own breakers (for lights, sockets, etc ...) ... if that makes sense :confused:
 
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1. a double insulated item has 2 layers of insulation between any live parts and any parts that can be touched while in use. Therefore it is impossible (theoretically) to get a shock off it and it doesn't need earthing.

2. When an appliance starts, usually it requires a high starting current, which settles down after a second or so. Large fridges, for example. Sometimes this current is above the rating of the circuit, so different types of MCBs are called for.

Type B MCBs are used in houses. They are the most sensitive to "sudden load" scenarios eg. compressors and motors starting, and light bulbs blowing. They trip the "most easily" if you like.

Type C and D can take these high starting currents, particularly type D, and as such are more suited to commercial applications where many lights or motors (big fridges and air con) are started at once.

I have never encountered Type A MCBs but they must exist, why would a rating system start at B? :eek:

So, Type B: normal domestic circuits
Type C: dedicated fridge circuits or where initial start up current on a circuit is high (usually only commercial applications)
Type D: very large motor circuits (usually only industrial applications)

3. ask a spark, im not a bonding expert ;)

4. Take 4mm Cable, preferabbly in SWA or T+E in conduit from a 32A MCB in your consumer unit, out to the garage, fit a smaller Consumer unit here with a 40A RCD incomer and a 20A MCB for sockets and a 5/6A MCB for lights. Thats how i would do it anyway.
 
Luke1 said:
Right, well im a training spark and i had a few questions i wanted clearing up.

1, Why does a double insulated load not require an earth, whats so different about it to any other load, i mean why cant you get a shock off it?

This is generally Class II equipment in which protection does not rely upon basic insualtion, but this is augmentary by secondary insulation. Further there is connection for exposed metal parts to any protective condictor and nor should any be provided, they must not rely upon the fixed woring of an installtion for this protection either. All such equipment must comply with BS2754:1976

Luke1 said:
2, There are different types of MCB's arnt there? like A,B,C and a few others. Can someone please explain in what senario who i use eash.

Apart from compliance with BS7671 the importance of the "types" is to ensure that the MCB does not cause nuisance tripping when equipment on that circuit is energised or started. This can cause damage to the equipment, the MCB and also prove dangerous to any person using the equipment.

For instance, electric motors or low voltage lighting the use of a type B MCB may cause nuisance tripping and the choice of a type C MCB will invariably solve this problem.

The third characteristic is the short circuit protection. This is intended to protect against heavy faults, that may be rated in the thousands of amps, caused by short circuit faults. The capability of the MCB to operate under these extreme conditions gives its short circuit rating in Kiloamps (kA). In most domestic, small commercial and office environments a rating of 6kA is adequate. However in heavy commercial and certainly Industrial installations ratings of 10kA or more may be required.

MCBs are offered in types B , C and D. Where normal resistive loads are being fed the type B MCB may be sufficient however in many heavy commercial or industrial applications heavy loads, such as motors and special lighting exist, which may adversely affect the MCBs during starting and it may be necessary to use type C breakers.

In some cases such even these MCBs may not be sufficient. In some industrial or even commercial installations the start-up characteristics of the circuit may be such that even a Type C may not withstand the inrush currents, consequently a Type D breaker will be employed. However the use of Type D breakers whould always be done with care, the operating characteristics of these are such that the circuits may not then comply with BS7671 for normal disconnection times. If there is ever any doubt, expert advice should always be sought to prevent potentially dangerous situations.

Here are the rating of the basic types.

Type B - operates between 3 and 5 times full load current

Type C - operates between 5 and 10 times full load current

Type D - operates between 10 and 20 times full load current

Luke1 said:
3, When bonding a bath room, does a earth have to be taken straight from the mains, but whats happends when there are more than one bathroom? or can it come from the lighting circuit. Also what are the reccomonded size cables used?

There is no requirement for a main equipotential bond to be installed from the distribution board to any room containing a fixed bath or shower. The requirements (601-04) are that all circuits in these rooms should be so bonded to exposed or extraneous metalwork to prevent any potential difference from existing during fault conditions.

Luke1 said:
4, If wiring a garage, do i take say a 10mm cable to it then wire a seperate smaller mains for it, or do i wire it to the mains with its own breakers (for lights, sockets, etc ...) ... if that makes sense :confused:

That will depend on any number of factors. The distance from the main supply, the types of circuits being installed and their design currents, the types of equipment that will be used in this installation, and the competence of the people who use said equipment.

Generally I have always found it better to treat the Garage as a seperate installation. Install a time delay RCD (300mA 80A) adjacent to the Main Installation DB, this being fed from the meter not the DB. Then from here I run a suitably sized SWA to a small consumer unit in the Garage. This will normally contain a 63A 100mA RCD main switch , then the circuits for sockets and other such supplies protected by Type B or C 30mA RCBO's. Lighting I would always keep on Type B MCB's for safety reasons.

Always remember, the overload rating of any device installed in the garage should be less than that protecting the cable in the Time delay RCD.
 
Think thats cleared my questions up!

Cheers you two.
 
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crafty1289 said:
I have never encountered Type A MCBs but they must exist, why would a rating system start at B? :eek:
Maybe they don't exist? Early MCBs didn't have the lettered type-rating, but they were marked with their amperage, such as "5A". When the lettered types were decided, the letter was put before the amperage, but wouldn't it have been silly to have had "A5" and "5A" being different?

So perhaps they decided to skip type A so save any confusion?

Cheers,

Howard
 
There is a type breakers have no thermal part, that are magnetic only. So instant trip at 1 times rating - I have heard it spoken, but never seen it written that these would be the missing 'A' type breakers. Not a lot of use for protecting wiring, which really does have a thermal characteristic, so not made for consumer units. Occasionally seen protecting delicate electronics, in preferance to a fuse.
 
So just to make sure a 6A Type B MCB Would only blow when a fault current of 18A - 30A?

Also, another question. I was wondering why is it required for a double poled switch or fused spare to by used when installing an extraction fan in a bathroom? I dont understand why you have to isolate both live and neutral .... any one explain?
 
The breaker will only blow INSTANTLY at that current yes, as that is the electromagnet part. But the nominal rating is the current set by the thermal part, which takes a long time to warm up, but is the same for B6, C6 and D6, and will pass 6A for ever, 10A for perhaps 20 minutes, 15 A for a few minutes etc.. opertaing when it gets hot enough, offering similar performance to a good old hot wire fuse in fact, which is good, as that is what it replaces... Essentially the thermal part protects against overheating the wiring cables from overloading, the magnetic side against the cut wire short circuit.,

However, to blow a hot wire fuse INSTANTLY requires a lot more oomph, so the protection is not as good for certain ranges of fault current.
Search google for "MCB curves" - the TLC-direct website have some examples of current plotted against time to blow.

Neutral need not be at earth potential (actually under a fault it could be quite a long way off) and in situations where you are vulnerable to these lower voltages (hands wet during servicing?) you should treat neutral as if it were live.
hope that helps
 

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