Quick Question Re. Coving

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I'm going to fit some lightweight polystyrene type coving. Where the long, straight lengths of coving join the corner pieces, there will be a line/join.

Is it normal to fill these joins so they don't show, or just leave them? If yes, what type of filler is best?

I'm a bit worried that if I put filler on and sand down, I will wear away the soft polystyrene surface of the coving. Any advice on best technique appreciated.
 
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Thanks for the sermon. Not my choice of material.

Are you trying to tell me not to bother filling the joins?
 
I have always used polystyrene coving in the past, and to be fair, between it and my distinctly average diy skills the result is not always how i would want (esp the bit i let my missus do!)

I would use a flexsble caulk initially, as this will shrink upon drying, and then you can use a very light skim of filler. (i use powdered interior filler from the sheds)

Sanding can be done, lightly by hand, and wont damage the coving. I would recommend at least 4 coats of paint on the polystyrene coving though, as it helps cover the texture that can show through
 
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I have always used polystyrene coving in the past, and to be fair, between it and my distinctly average diy skills the result is not always how i would want (esp the bit i let my missus do!)

I would use a flexsble caulk initially, as this will shrink upon drying, and then you can use a very light skim of filler. (i use powdered interior filler from the sheds)

Sanding can be done, lightly by hand, and wont damage the coving. I would recommend at least 4 coats of paint on the polystyrene coving though, as it helps cover the texture that can show through

Powder filler is evil :eek: (on anything other than bare plaster). Although decorators often use fillers such as tetrion to feather out between layers of paint the instructions tell you not to. In time it frequently blows. You might want to try one of the soft lightweight fillers such as Red Devil OneTime. It is soft enough to enable you to use 180 grit silicone carbide (which is less aggressive and more flexible than the corresponding aluminium oxide paper).
 
Thanks for all your help.

Saw the Red Devil in Screwfix recently, so may give that a go. I realise Poly. coving isn't ideal, but I'm helping someone out -as I'm a plumber I think they are only expecting a plumber quality finish. :eek: :eek:

We'll see.
 
I have always used polystyrene coving in the past, and to be fair, between it and my distinctly average diy skills the result is not always how i would want (esp the bit i let my missus do!)

I would use a flexsble caulk initially, as this will shrink upon drying, and then you can use a very light skim of filler. (i use powdered interior filler from the sheds)

Sanding can be done, lightly by hand, and wont damage the coving. I would recommend at least 4 coats of paint on the polystyrene coving though, as it helps cover the texture that can show through

Powder filler is evil :eek: (on anything other than bare plaster). Although decorators often use fillers such as tetrion to feather out between layers of paint the instructions tell you not to. In time it frequently blows. You might want to try one of the soft lightweight fillers such as Red Devil OneTime. It is soft enough to enable you to use 180 grit silicone carbide (which is less aggressive and more flexible than the corresponding aluminium oxide paper).


That could be where I am going wrong, and why mine looks so terrible! Thanks for the tip :D
 
I have these new type covings in my house and have put them up for other poeple. You honestly cant tell the difference to them. They are a very dense fine foam and paint well.
 
Thanks for all your help.

I'm helping someone out -as I'm a plumber I think they are only expecting a plumber quality finish. :eek: :eek:

We'll see.

You can't use that as an excuse for a bodged result!!! If you aren't up to it, don't accept money for doing it.
 

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