Radiator removal

[jaylockwood1978]

Hi, I’ve tried removing a couple of old radiators so I can remove the wallpaper behind, get it plastered and with a view to have new rads fitted.
The nuts are totally seized and I’m reluctant to try too much brute force in case I fa age the pipes. Then I’m really up the creek…

One thing I read was to drain the system and remove the smaller vertical nut and take the rad off with the valve still attached.

I think I am ok with this up to this point but what don’t do once the rad is off? Is there a way to cap off that vertical pipe as I will need to turn the boiler back on for hot water in the shower etc even though we don’t need the heating on yet.

Thank you in advance

 

[johnny2007]

Close the valves first.
Spray wd40 abundantly on the radiator tail.
Wait half hour and hold the valve with a wrench, then undo the tail nut.
It might take some force.

 

[jaylockwood1978]

Hi, I’ve tried that and it didn’t budge. I’m worried about damaging the pipe work if I go too hard

 

[fixitflav]

Hi, I’ve tried that and it didn’t budge. I’m worried about damaging the pipe work if I go too hard

You could try warming the nut (carefully!) with a blowtorch

 

[Madrab]

It's a union, they will go as they're just brass on brass but it is an interference fit and over time they can lock up a bit. What you need to do is use a pair of grips ( I use vice grips) and hold the valve vertically as you use the adjustable to loosen the nut, that way it stops the valve from moving and putting pressure on the pipe. Don't forget those nuts will loosen clockwise, as you look at them from the valve end.

It sometimes take a tap from a hammer on the adjustable to crack the nut

 

[jaylockwood1978]

Thank you at least I was turning it the right way lol I was using adjustable spanner on the nut to the point it was just slipping round and off. I’m worried to go too hard as if it damages the pipe I have no clue other than fetch towels and buckets!!

 

[Harry Bloomfield]

What you need to do is use a pair of grips ( I use vice grips) and hold the valve vertically as you use the adjustable to loosen the nut, that way it stops the valve from moving and putting pressure on the pipe.

If they seem tight, I always prefer to use two spanners or whatever - one on the nut, one on the fitting. I arrange the two, so that some sort of lever can be applied between them - a stick, screwdriver, even another spanner. The lever allows much more force to be applied, with less likelihood of stress to pipes, fittings, and less strain on me.

 

[Madrab]

I was using adjustable spanner on the nut to the point it was just slipping round and off.

Poor fitting adjustables, they tend to be the cheaper ones that can loosen. You need to fit the spanner to the nut then turn the adjusting wheel a little to really tighten the jaws onto the flats. If you have another pair adjustables you can use that to hold the valve too.

 

[jaylockwood1978]

Brilliant, thank you, will give those tips a go when I get home

 

[opps]

I am not a plumber, but I like Bahco adjustable spanners. Especially their slim jaw adjustable (one lives in my rucksack).

Bahco Spanners | Sockets, Spanners & Wrenches | Screwfix

Great Range of Bahco Spanners at Screwfix.com. Free next day delivery available. Delivery 7 days a week. Click & collect in as little as a minute. Free returns.

www.screwfix.com

My biggest gripe with cheapo ones is that if you use them upside down, the jaw drops by a mm or two, forcing to to have to slide them open and then closed with each rotation.

 

[fixitflav]

I am not a plumber, but I like Bahco adjustable spanners. Especially their slim jaw adjustable (one lives in my rucksack).

Bahco Spanners | Sockets, Spanners & Wrenches | Screwfix

Great Range of Bahco Spanners at Screwfix.com. Free next day delivery available. Delivery 7 days a week. Click & collect in as little as a minute. Free returns.

www.screwfix.com

My biggest gripe with cheapo ones is that if you use them upside down, the jaw drops by a mm or two, forcing to to have to slide them open and then closed with each rotation.

That type's OK for the nut, but can't be used to hold the valve body to avoid putting force on the pipe. Need a right-angle type for that.

I'd use 2 Stillsons, set them up so the outer ends are about 3" apart, depending on how big your hands are, then squeeze together, without pulling. If that doesn't work, reposition them and try Harry's lever method.

 

[opps]

That type's OK for the nut, but can't be used to hold the valve body to avoid putting force on the pipe. Need a right-angle type for that.

I'd use 2 Stillsons, set them up so the outer ends are about 3" apart, depending on how big your hands are, then squeeze together, without pulling. If that doesn't work, reposition them and try Harry's lever method.

I wasn't recommending a spanner to hold the valve body. I too use a stillson to hold the valve, but find that one is sufficient, as I apply force with the spanner, I apply opposite force with the stillson.

Perhaps (as is often the case) I am having a senior moment. I can't quite visualise your technique. Perhaps your stillsons have less wide jaws than mine. Or perhaps I have never worked on a rad where the nut is super-dooper tight.

My comment was in response to cheap adjustable spanners.

 

[dilalio]

Give me a lever long enough and I'll move the earth!

 

[opps]

Give me a lever long enough and I'll move the earth!

Whilst standing on the back of Terry Pratchett's turtle?

 

[fixitflav]

I wasn't recommending a spanner to hold the valve body.

I know, I was just commenting. And the right spanner (as you say) is better than an adjustable.

Perhaps (as is often the case) I am having a senior moment. I can't quite visualise your technique.

I get the outer end of each spanner (or Stillson) in the plane I'm trying to turn the nut, a short distance apart, and then squeeze together. I find that way it's easier than pushing one and pulling the other to avoid putting a force where you don't want it. But each to his own!