Rating of this ring main for oven install?

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I have a seperate ring for the kitchen and downstairs sockets.
It has a fused switch above worktop connected to a socket down below which has a single oven connected via a 13amp plug at the moment.
Please could someone tell me what rating (in kw) I would be safe to change the oven for?

At present I have a dishwasher, kettle, freezer and single oven (gas hob) running from it.

I have attached pictures of the cable (which says 2X2.5mm on it) and a picture of the unit that they are attached to.

Do the different coloured switches on the unit correspond to rating? (i.e 32 amp?)

Thanks View media item 38515 View media item 38516
 
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The ones marked "B32" are 32Amp, which is usual for a socket ring or a cooker circuit

The one marked "B16" is 16Amp which is usual for an immersion heater circuit

The ones marked B6 are 6Amp which is usual for a lighting circuit.

They are not required to be different colours, though yours are.

You can put an appliance of 13A rating into a socket, that is about 3Kw. You will be surprised to hear that a double socket is also rated at 3kW total (not 3kW x 2). So you can run a typical single oven designed for the UK market on a UK plug; but not a double oven, or an electric hob, or an electric cooker.

Though it is better practice to put a single large fixed appliance on its own circuit.
 
So if I dont have any places left on the board to put a new ring in for the oven, what do I do?

Change the board? (please dont say yes it would probably cost loads!)
 
an oven does not have a ring, it has a radial.

Why do you feel you need a new one?

Electrical work in kitchens is controlled by Building Regulations Schedule 4 and not really a DIY job.
 
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Thanks for that John.

If I have a switch with a fuse above worktop level is it likely to be a radial?

I also have one for where the washing machine goes (i.e switch above worktop level with a fuse in it and a socket under worktop)

Is there any way how I can tell if its on the ring or radial?

I wont be altering any wiring myself, just wanted to know what to expect, and also to know which oven to buy.
 
could be either. Most often a spur off the socket ring. You can tell by turning off the MCB for the sockets and seeing if it goes off.
 
I wont be altering any wiring myself, just wanted to know what to expect, and also to know which oven to buy.
If you want to keep things as they are (i.e. avoid the possible need for a new or additional board, because of no spaces for an extra circuit), yoiu should get an oven no more than 3kW which is designed to be supplied via a 13A plug.

As others have said, the ideal situation is for an oven to have its own separate circuit but since that would involve you in appreciable hassle and fuss (new or additional CU), you may wish to adopt the above approach.

[ A third approach, much simpler/cheaper than a whole new board, would be to get your electrician to install a small additional CU for a separate cooker circuit, but there's probably no point as long as you stick to the rpesent arrangement with a plugged in (3kW max) oven.]

Kind Regards, John.
 

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