Doesnt matter how you do it but to link the timer out and prove or disprove that its the cause of your woes you need to join the 2 green wires that go to terminals 3 and 5
Take the wire from position 5 on the back of the timer and put it on to position 4. With the timer turned to the off position the boiler will fire if the timer is broken.
Another more sure way of doing it is to take a piece of wire with 2 male spade connectors on it and join those wires together.
The wires going to 1 and 2 are to power the unit.
Timer part number is TM 6192
Another very common thing on these is the CH thermistor. Thats the green sensor on the right. Take one with you as if it was a spare light bulb. Part number 0007TER05005/0 They are only about £15. You may not need it now but you will at some time in the future.
Your ignition PCB is ok as the boiler wouldnt light for HW if there was a fault with it.
Main PCB's rarely go wrong on these. Heres hoping yours isnt a rare case.
I wouldnt take one with me if I were you. You can always order them over the internet if you do need one.
Believe it or not, I have seen a boiler (cheap brand, and definitely a cowboy job from sub) that was working fine. Even though there was no governor in sight anywhere near the ecv, so I have got the feeling that the inlet pressure may have been a little bit high in at least part of the system. Was not my job and was not in position to investigate but I would suspect it could well qualify as ID. Company was corgi registered, but a bit busy so they subbed it out, the sub was a bit busy so they had a temp, who was a bit busy……….. if you ever worded for a council contractor or a housing association you will probably know what I mean.
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