Ravenheat - constant sparking - No flame fault

[SueBeebies]

Hi,
Can anyone help me with this problem. I have a Ravenheat combi boiler, mode CSI85AT. It has developed a fault. It started, while cold with a call for heat, by cutting out a few seconds after the main burner lit but immediately going through the ignition sequence again and lighting again then cutting again etc. Eventually it would stop this and work normally. It was not short cycling as it did this right at start up and the water pump is running.

It then stopped lighting the main burner and comes up with the no flame warning light. The sequence up to lighting the main burner is ok the pump starts the fan starts, it sparks and lights the pilot. It does, however, continue to spark.

The gas valve has resistance of about 4k Ohm across both the main and pilot solenoids. I've changed the Ignition board.

This has had no effect! I have also fitted a new pilot assembly!
Hope someone can help.
Sue.

 

[Rob]

new HT lead?

 

[SueBeebies]

Thanks for the reply Rob.
I checked it and the resistance across the entire lead is zero. Do you still think it could be the HT lead?
Sue.

 

[Rob]

Would have changed it along with pilot assembly. And seeing as you have replaced the ignition board not a great deal else it can be.
Very unlikely but check polarity to boiler (basics first andallthat)

 

[SueBeebies]

Thanks Rob,
any idea where I could get an HT lead from?
Sue.

 

[gas4you]

Local parts center, or plenty of online parts suppliers.

Google it.

 

[SueBeebies]

Cheers Dave.

 

[topskins]

It then stopped lighting the main burner and comes up with the no flame warning light. The sequence up to lighting the main burner is ok the pump starts the fan starts, it sparks and lights the pilot. It does, however, continue to spark.

This part sounds very similar to the issue I had below (see last post for the resolution):

//www.diynot.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=105947&start=0&postdays=0&postorder=asc&highlight=

...I'd try checking your condensate trap and, if it looks OK, disconnecting the "sensor" anyway.

 

[SueBeebies]

Hi Topskins,
Thanks for the reply, really appreciate it. Will check it out and let you know if this sorts it.
Sue.

 

[SueBeebies]

Many Thanks 'Topskins'. The condensate trap was fine i.e. full on one side only with the other draining freely. I disconnected the earth from the condensate trap and the boiler behaved erratically, starting shutting down etc. However, when I replace the earth and disconnected the HT lead it worked just fine. Heat and hot water lovely.

 

[Wilbur:]

...I'd try checking your condensate trap and, if it looks OK, disconnecting the "sensor" anyway.

Does anybody know if this is allowed as I see it all the time, the lead just curled up and left hanging there. Is this not a safety device, but it's not an FFD, so can some please give me the definitive answer. Cheers guys

 

[DeletedUser]

...I'd try checking your condensate trap and, if it looks OK, disconnecting the "sensor" anyway.

Does anybody know if this is allowed as I see it all the time, the lead just curled up and left hanging there. Is this not a safety device, but it's not an FFD, so can some please give me the definitive answer. Cheers guys

I was told by ravenheat that they no longer supply the lead that connects to the condensate trap.They gave me a part number for a lead that bypasses the condense.

 

[Wilbur:]

Does anybody know if that goes for the promax too?