re-changing randall rf wireless unit

[funky-monkey]

having changed my clock timer to a randall 103 rf wireless thanks to the help i recieved on here, then realising it was just a room thermastat not a timer am now changing it to a rf wireless timer, the connections on new unit are 1-n 2-L 3-com 4-no 5-nc any idea on the wiring

 

[EliteHeat]

Assuming that you have a 3-port m/valve; permanent live to 3, 5 to the white wire on the 3PV - plus obviously the neutral and other live.

 

[funky-monkey]

will explain again what ive done

these are the diagrams of my wiring, which i swapped an old randall clock timer for a digistat wireless one, i had 2 sets of wires going to the old randall uint

 

[funky-monkey]

someone then helped whith this
Posted: Fri Nov 02, 2007 12:46 pm Post Subject:

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Take it that it is a Drayton digistat rf.

Lives and neutrals are obvious earth goes into tag half way down on digistat backplate..

Wire that is in terminal 3 of randall goes to common (terminal 1) on digistat and wire that is in terminal 1 of randall goes to terminal 3 of digistat.

THI
........
plumbed it in as above and everything worked fine, but am now changing it again to an actual timer one, as the one ive fitted is only a thermastat,..
the new receiver box has 2 ways of plumbing the wires, volt free and 230vac, the new terninal block has 5 treminals,, any idea

 

[namsag]

Exact name and model of the new one you have bought..

Web address of manufacturers if you have it

 

[funky-monkey]

http://www.coronadocontrols.com
digital programable-product code 908WHB-3B

 

[funky-monkey]

can draw the 2 wiring diagrams in instructions

 

[namsag]

Yeah nothing on web site so put a drawing on an makesure you get it right unlike the last one
Someone should be able to work it it as it should be straight forward

 

[funky-monkey]

this is a faxed copy of wiring instructions

 

[namsag]

Same as before live and neutrals into marked terminals....Put earth into a terminal block (if it dont fit remove a bit of plaster behind unit so it sits back..

wire that is in terminal one(common) of your present stat goes into terminal 3 of new back plate

wire that is in terminal 3 of your present stat goes into terminal 4 of your new on(going by drawing saying this is heating on outlet)

DO NOT put the live link in as in one of fig 4 drawings

 

[D_Hailsham]

having changed my clock timer to a randall 103 rf wireless thanks to the help i recieved on here, then realising it was just a room thermastat not a timer am now changing it to a rf wireless timer, the connections on new unit are 1-n 2-L 3-com 4-no 5-nc any idea on the wiring

In your previous posts you said that you were changing a Randall 103 for a Drayton Digistat RF2. Which is a thermostat with 24hr timer

You now says that you have installed a Randall 103 RF!! Can't find it on the Danfoss-Randall website.

You then say that you have bought the 908WHB-3B timer from Coronado.

According to their website it is:

Large LCD Screen Digital Programmable 5 + 1 + 1 day 2 Wire Volt Free. Heat/Cool. 24/250v 5 Amp ( Battery Operated ) Room Thermostat

So now you have two thermostat/timers or is it three?

 

[funky-monkey]

thanks namsag, works great, saved me a few shillings
re - units, originally had a randall 103 old clock syle, changed that to a digistat rf1 and now to the lcd screen one

 

[funky-monkey]

unit seams to be working fine, ie its reiceiving each other, but its not turning the heating on and off , any ideas

 

[funky-monkey]

it seams its doing the oposite to what it should, ie its turning the heating off when the unit wants heat