re-papering

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Hi Guys, gonna re-paper bedroom, only been done once on bare plaster.
Top half of dado is heavy duty, vynyl, which comes off leaving backing for a liner.ok with that.
Bottom of dado, is aplain paper , which I have painted with matt emulsion a coulpe years ago, sound, and flat.
Question is, can I paper over bottom paper, without any prepping?
just leave it on as a liner?
 
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Hi Guys, gonna re-paper bedroom, only been done once on bare plaster.
Top half of dado is heavy duty, vynyl, which comes off leaving backing for a liner.ok with that.
Bottom of dado, is aplain paper , which I have painted with matt emulsion a coulpe years ago, sound, and flat.
Question is, can I paper over bottom paper, without any prepping?
just leave it on as a liner?

Are you putting the dado back ?

If you are going to paper the complete wall and not have a dado rail you will end up with a line, due to different thickness and the removal of the dado rail . showing through the new wallpaper when it dries out.
 
Hi Guys, gonna re-paper bedroom, only been done once on bare plaster.
Top half of dado is heavy duty, vynyl, which comes off leaving backing for a liner.ok with that.
Bottom of dado, is aplain paper , which I have painted with matt emulsion a coulpe years ago, sound, and flat.
Question is, can I paper over bottom paper, without any prepping?
just leave it on as a liner?

Are you putting the dado back ?

If you are going to paper the complete wall and not have a dado rail you will end up with a line, due to different thickness and the removal of the dado rail . showing through the new wallpaper when it dries out.
Hi, Boss, dado stopping on, using different paper top and bottom.
just want to paper over existing paper on the bottom, which has been painted with matt emulsion.wondered if it would be a problem, using existing paper as a liner?
 
As long as the existing paper is in good condition, crosslined, stuck firmly to the wall with absolutely no loose patches at all and not too dark a colour (which might show through your new paper), you should be OK.

I have to say I would take it off and start again with a crosslining, then hang my top paper, personally.

But then I'm a purist ;)
 
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As long as the existing paper is in good condition, crosslined, stuck firmly to the wall with absolutely no loose patches at all and not too dark a colour (which might show through your new paper), you should be OK.

I have to say I would take it off and start again with a crosslining, then hang my top paper, personally.

But then I'm a purist ;)
thanks emily.
just looking at paper at the moment.b/q.didn,t realise there were so many paint the wall papers, never used them before.?
ain,t done any papering for years but, always did my own,before;;;like a bike.
I,m a purist too, so, just wondering whether to sub it out;;;then, the hard work is prepping, so if I do that, might as well do the lot.
there,s no cross lining? on bottom paper, and top paper, will leave it,s own, vertical lining;;
just doing my homework before I start;;don,t want a bad job, expensive stuff on now.it,s o /h,s decission, I don,t like change, but, even though it,s still perfect, it,s 17 years old.;;;old stately homes don,t change it every few years, and mines stately. ;)
 
If you intend to go over the Old lining paper with your new wallpaper, you may find the old lining will lift when it dries out, especially if you use "paste the Wall" type paper
 
If you intend to go over the Old lining paper with your new wallpaper, you may find the old lining will lift when it dries out, especially if you use "paste the Wall" type paper
Hi Boss, I won,t be using paste the wall paper, just the old tried and tested way,I,m 70 so, stick to what I know.
Wasn,t till I looked at another thread, that I come across "paste the wall."
If I give the old backing paper from the existing paper, on top of dado, a good sizing, or, perhaps that may be wrong? just paste paper, and let it stand, normal time.because, sizing, would be just the same as pasting the wall.Am I correct.?
Probably best to do as emily said, start again, cross line, strip it all off;?
I thought the paper that left the backing on, was for the purpose of lining?
 
What you have suggested would be good enough if the old backing paper is in good condition, no gaps inbetween joins etc, sizing would help to stick the edges of the old backing paper as well.
It would depend on your starting point with the new paper, the old joints may show through the new paper when it dries out.
 
What you have suggested would be good enough if the old backing paper is in good condition, no gaps inbetween joins etc, sizing would help to stick the edges of the old backing paper as well.
It would depend on your starting point with the new paper, the old joints may show through the new paper when it dries out.
Hi Boss, just been doing a bit of reading about, PTW paper, bit contradictory, and nearly all the best patters are PTW.
Wifes loking at Nexts range, got several books here from local shop 50>£100 per roll. The one that,s on was £25 per roll 17 years ago.top quality, but had trouble with the seams, leaving a gap.
If I leave backing paper on, and straddle the joints, start between the old seams, should be ok.?
Even if I stripped it all off, lined horzontally, and pasted the wall, the liner could bubble the same.?
Isn,t the idea of horizontal lining, so seams dont match.?
both top and bottom paper is sound, even when I painted over the bottom with Matt emulsion, it didn,t bubble, that,s why I am tempted to just paper over it.? and straddling the joints again, which are barely visible.
Difficult buying paper today, Next/B/q/ et.al ,order online, no proper sample books, like I,ve got here, but OH reluctant to pay them prices.
Was reading another thread, about PTW, Gdad, used it, but didn,t say if he lined the walls, but, HE pasted the paper, and said he was happy, with result.
Just seen a striped paper for bottom with a 53 cm, pattern match.??didn,t think there was a PM on striped papers , as such. :?:
 
Preparation is always the key to a good looking job.

If you are thinking of spending a lot of money on the finished item, but not prepared to undertake the initial preparation, you end up with just a DIY looking job,
What you are saying will work, but the end result may look poor, as Emily has said it might be better to go back to the beginning and start afresh, £50/£100 per roll wallpaper is a bit OTT and not end up with a good looking finish. Only you can decide on how you want to do the job. .
 
Preparation is always the key to a good looking job.

If you are thinking of spending a lot of money on the finished item, but not prepared to undertake the initial preparation, you end up with just a DIY looking job,
What you are saying will work, but the end result may look poor, as Emily has said it might be better to go back to the beginning and start afresh, £50/£100 per roll wallpaper is a bit OTT and not end up with a good looking finish. Only you can decide on how you want to do the job. .
cheers boss, gonna start from scratch, strip it all back to bare walls, reline, and when oh has decided on paper, do it then.just take my time, plenty of it;
as you say, prices from local shop are ott, she,s gone to next, today, £15+, so she,s gonna order, from there,if;; she sees something;; don,t know where else, any tips.?
 
One thing to bear in mind, these "Trendy" named shops, the wallpaper they sell which is pricey, can be of very poor quality you are paying for the name and an exclusive product,

I`ve not hung "Next" paper, but thank Goodness "Laura Ashley" papers are now out of fashion, its like putting soaking wet toilet roll on the walls.
:evil:
I advise my customers to go to a Good Main Decorators Merchants
DIY stores tend to buy in bulk and one has to be careful about pattern match, especially if its an end of line product. (they dont tell you that, so make sure you have enough paper of the same match to complete the job)
 
One thing to bear in mind, these "Trendy" named shops, the wallpaper they sell which is pricey, can be of very poor quality you are paying for the name and an exclusive product,

I`ve not hung "Next" paper, but thank Goodness "Laura Ashley" papers are now out of fashion, its like putting soaking wet toilet roll on the walls.
:evil:
I advise my customers to go to a Good Main Decorators Merchants
DIY stores tend to buy in bulk and one has to be careful about pattern match, especially if its an end of line product. (they dont tell you that, so make sure you have enough paper of the same match to complete the job)

Hear, hear.

Laura Ashley claim to have improved their wallpaper lately, but it has been dreadful over the last few years at least. I know professional decorators who refuse point blank to work with it. The last lot I put on (Cottonwood) went on fine, but they ended up reimbursing me for a rubbish batch (and associated work) last year. The pulp was very poor quality and they insist you use their own poxy glue, which doesn't help. It's far too sloppy, which stretches the paper. Nightmare.
 
something wrong with site, not what I,ve commented . You quote, I comment.but, only to bosswhites
 
@joesoap: Please edit the above post so the individual contributions by different members are separately identified. Your quoting makes it look as though I wrote the whole lot, which I did not.

Also, I am not quite sure why joesoap has reproduced the whole lot without adding a comment of his own. Perhaps he could explain the point of it.
 

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