Read through search of 'soldering', now the Qs

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It's been a while since I last posted; April 05 (ish)

Let me introduce myself a little; I'm an electrical maintenance engineer at a major beverage producer from Ireland which is packaged in England yet I live in Wales so just missing a Scottish link. I've done house-bashing, predominantly factory-bashing, mainly automation and plcs but was involved in factory services such as ammonia refrigeration, compressed air and vacuum. Have done a little plumbing (factory based) and am now adding to my central heating!

I've read through all/most of the search results on this site relating to soldering copper pipe (showing willing).

I've practised and practised with 15 and 22mm joints, tees, elbows, etc... with hood results... thanks probably to many years of intricate electrical soldering and some refrigeration brazing numerous years ago.

In the results I found conflicting comments on heating the fittings; some say start at the bottom as heat rises... some say start at the top so you don't boil the flux/solder. I was also told to only heat the pipe to conduct heat to the cup. Which is the textbook/correct way?

Why do people add solder to solder ring fittings when the solder is 'built in' (unless overheated and it drains out)?

As a relative beginner I find I prefer end feed as I feel I have better control.

I use a Bernzomatic TS839 on propane or pencil flame 680W brass torch on butane mix. Is there an ideal setting for these such as flame length?

Finally(!)... I read and see (ie...on YouTube) that you should flux both pipe and fitting which is also contradicted saying that only the pipe should be fluxed. Pipe only seems better so no flux enters piping. Please clarify.

I'm sure I will probably get conflicting responses. Is it just a case of 'whichever way suits each individual' or 'go with whatever works for you',... I'm just looking for textbook or proven methods.

I'm a big fan of retro methods... years of proven reliability of copper and solder... yet welcome the relatively new plastic era but until 20/30 years proven will stick with what grandpa did.

Many thanks in advance. Your time, effort and sharing of trade knowledge is greatly appreciated in advance. I just want to do it right... you do it right then you do it only once - Richie
 
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You only need to flux the pipe. although trying to persuade pro's not to flux the fitting as well is a waste of time.

Apply the heat to the center of the fitting, and you should see heat rings when hot enough, then feed the solder in.

Getting the fitting too hot is bad, and easy to avoid if you keep touching the pipe with the solder, when it starts to run you can remove the heat and just add more heat as needed
 
Thanks doitall.

ChrisR; you state 'It has ALL been covered.' but it is ALL contradicting stuff in the searches. So please... point me to the textbook or at least contribute positively (cue pointless response of not being a plumber/tradesman/pipefitter, not reading properly, etc...).

What I dislike about open forums is people pipe up with pointless comments. Please... if you are negative... ignore the thread. If you are interested in contributing to building the knowledge of new arrivals have the decency to be proactive. We don't waste your time unless you HAVE A DEFINITIVE WISH to respond to every thread as if you have nothing better to do.

ChrisR; I'm sure you want to share your knowledge. You really are itching to tell me how to do it right, aren't you? You are desperate to show me how qualified you are and the level of ability and skill you have worked hard to reach.

Thanks doitall for your positive approach. - Richie
 
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The search facility works. It's an easy one to look up. Do you want the same people to reiterate the same answers?
 
But Richie there is no set in stone rules, I can only tell what I have found best for the last 50 years, others have their own way, and if it works for them who can knock it.

Flux in the pipe is bad.

Getting it too hot is bad.

Keep that in mind and who cares how you do it, the solder will enter the fitting when its hot enough at any angle.

And it has all been covered probably a thousand times
 
Thanks... but maybe people who've not answered the questions in the archives would like to get involved this time.

As I have already stated... the search function has been used and there is conflicting facts as stated in initial post. My Q was to clear up stuff read from the depths of this site.

Soldering is a fundamental skill desired for coupling copper pipe. Agree?

As a DIYer, not a PRO then I'll have to make my own mind up from trial and error.

Once again... thanks... invaluable stuff.
 
Read post no 25 in the FAQs which should cover it.

You need to practise and find what works for you.

If you have any specific query then post back but practising is the way to go. :D
 
If you've done lots of soldering, no matter on what, you know you get it hot enough, no more, and you clean the joints and use minimum flux. What else is there?

I have seen plenty of professionals who lay on trowels full of flux and boil the flux and damn near boil the solder too.

YOU know what makes a good joint as you've done it on electrical work, plenty of plumbers have no idea. You can see when the joint has worked properly, as the solder just shows a line around the joint, not when you have a pool of solder on the floor and flux dribbling down the pipe.
 
Useless

I am a committed competent DIY'er and like you sometimes find it frustrating reading pages of arguments between the "Pros".

After reading all the threads on soldering, practising with end feed and yorkshires I tackled a new CH system. I had about 60 joints to solder. I personally found end feeds, fluxing pipe and fitting and heating the fitting the best way for me, touching the solder until it runs worked best.

I accepted that there is a case of each to his own but was gratified when only one fitting leaked. My Gas fitter seemed impressed with the work and in fact his technique was the same as mine.

Best advice is Go with what works for you!
 

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