Recommended Extractor Fan for En-suite

[Jonmyates]

Morning all.

Just canvassing for opinion on the above.

Something not to noisy, sturdy and a good price.

What do people suggest?

Thanks.

 

[Taylortwocities]

That's like asking

"I'm Looking for a Car, Just canvassing for opinion"

So,

How big is the room in cubic metres?

What number of air changes to your expect/need per hour?

Is there any ducting in place? If so what type.
What length is/will be the duct?

Letgs start with those vital questions first.

 

[Jonmyates]

Hi Taylortwocities.

Room is 5 sq mtrs.

2 changes per hour.

No ducting in place, newly built room.

Regarding length. Does the fan need to be cited above the show enclosure or can it be set nearer the wall? If above enclosure approx 3 mtr of ducting required, otherwise about 1 mtr.

Cheers.

 

[Aragorn84]

If its a shower room, you need waay more than 2 changes per hour. More like 20.

You also need to know volume of the space, not just square meters (area)

Use this calculator to get an airflow figure:

https://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Technical/Ventilation/Ventilation4.html

 

[Jonmyates]

Thanks both, great help.

 

[Taylortwocities]

If are having a ceiling/wall fan I like the ICON30 fans

For in-line fans, go for the TD range http://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/SLTDK160T.html for example

Note, cheap fans are hopeless at pushing air much further than just through a 9" wall !

 

[Gutterball]

http://www.greenwood.co.uk/product/33/499/continuously-running-bathroom-or-kitchen-fan.html

 

[wundaboy]

I've got one of these in my en suite, really effective and would recommend it:

http://www.nuaire.co.uk/products/catalogue/residential/extract-fans/genie/

The model I've got runs constantly (practically silent) at low level and boosts up to full speed when the light is turned on then back down to low level mode when the light is turned off - the wiring is identical to a standard bathroom fan with run-on, 3C+E cable with permanent and switched live.

Interestingly, this is the first time I've come across a tangible problem caused by induced voltage. I wired it with 3C+E, brown as permanent live, black as switched live, grey as neutral (appropriately sleeved for id).

Now of course, 3C+E cable is laid out brown, black, CPC, grey. I found the fan wouldn't kick back down to low level mode when the light was switched off - I had to turn it off and on at the fan isolator for that to happen. After a bit of head scratching I pondered induced voltages and swapped over the neutral and switched live back as far as the isolator so that permanent live and switched live were as far removed from each other as possible, and this resolved the problem.

Like i say, I've never come across this before in a domestic situation and I wonder whether this fan's control circuitry is particularly sensitive to it. Still wouldn't stop me recommending it, as I haven't had an issue since.

 

[Taylortwocities]

as the CPC actually connected to earth. I have found this can be the cause of increased induced voltages.

PS I hope you sleeved the transposed cores so the next guy understands what you've done!

 

[wundaboy]

Yep, CPC connected and cores sleeved appropriately at both ends. TN-S system.

Interesting what you say about the CPC. Why would it increase induced voltages?

 

[Taylortwocities]

Sorry, badly typed. It seems (to me anyway) that a connected cpc will act as a drain for induced voltages from other cores, so the induced voltage is reduced.
An unconnected cpc can act as an antenna for induced voltages.

 

[JohnW2]

Interestingly, this is the first time I've come across a tangible problem caused by induced voltage. ... Like i say, I've never come across this before in a domestic situation and I wonder whether this fan's control circuitry is particularly sensitive to it. Still wouldn't stop me recommending it, as I haven't had an issue since.

Interesting. I've not come across it happening, either, but I'm not totally surprised. The 'trigger' (S/L) input to a fan timer module typically goes through a high value resistor, usually in the range 150kΩ - 300kΩ, so the very most trigger current that could be required is only about 1mA. However, having gone through that resistor, the trigger input frequently goes straight to the input of a CMOS IC or FET, so the actual current needed to trigger may well, in some cases, be only a few μA - and it would not take incidental 'leakage' to achieve that.

I presume that (particularly in view of your 'cure') the 'incidental leakage' is capacitive, rather than inductive. The current flowing though neutral and permanent live will obviously be (virtually) the same, so swapping their positions would not be expected to alter inductive coupling. However, capacitive coupling would obviously reduce if you got the S/L and P/L cores as far apart as possible, particularly if there was a CPC connected to earth between them.

Kind Regards, John

 

[SteveGoossens]

For in-line fans, go for the TD range http://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/SLTDK160T.html for example

+1 for the Soler & Palau TD160T

Our shower cubicle in our bathroom has a spotlight duct above, ducting into the loft, in-line fan, ducting to exterior wall.

The noisy Manrose 100mm in-line fan finally died about a month ago.

Decided to look for a quiet, yet powerful, replacement and went for the TD160T. It's a lot quieter than the previous fan, but still hummed a bit from being mounted on the ceiling joist, so I got some more ducting and mounted it to a rafter instead. It's so quiet now you can only just hear it.