Redecorating rework

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Loss adjustor had accepted my claim for water damage and had supplied own contractors to redecorat various rooms ( including all ceiling, walls (both using Trade Diamond Egg Shell paint), however, their contractor/ decorators had painted all walls and ceiling with 3 coats of paint within 4 hours) and where the leaks were the bubbled up area are showing some are 1 meter long ). Also, the the water stains was covered using a white stain blocker but these stains are still showing through and the new painted ceiling is also white.

The loss adjustor has agree to redo some of these areas, and I am waiting to hear whether they will appoint a different decorating company.
Question
1. how can the stained areas be made good of so that the stains no longer show through
2. how to make good of the uneven surfaces and the bubbled up areas? is it to sand down and repaint the problem walls and ceiling areas ?
3. the oil painted door frames and skirtings will be repainted with water base paint, do these need to be sanded to bare wood before applying the water base paint?
4. Should brush strokes and paint roller marks be seen on the painted sufaces? as I was told it is due to the uneven walls and ceilings?
5. is it better to find my own contractor ask the loss adjustor to cover the cost or use the contractor supplied by them ?
 
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Diamond eggshell needs 4-6 hours drying time before recoating. On particularly warm days, less than 4 hours may be acceptable.

The paint bubbling up could be a number of factors. If the first coat of emulsion (before the water damage) had not been sufficiently thinned, subsequent coats may cause it to bubble. It is the result of the water in the subsequent coats penetrating through the first coat.

Diamond eggshell is very different to regular emulsion. If you spray water on to regular emulsion, you can see that some of the water will suck in to the emulsion. With diamond, the water will run down the wall.

The first coat of Diamond eggshell soaks into the existing (regular) emulsion very quickly. The second coat flows very nicely, but not if you force feed 3 coats in 4 hours.

I cannot definitely say that the pronounced orange peel effect and brush marks are down to the insurance company's contractors, but based on your post, I think it is probable/possible.

I would be inclined to ask a reputable firm to quote to apply lining paper, and then paint over that. The alternative is to sand the (paint finish on the walls) back. Not a good move though, the cost of abrasives, labour and dust extractors bags is more expensive.

The price to repaint to the standard that you previously had, will probably exceed the price paid to the rubbish contracted decorators. That isn't your problem though.

Get a quote from a reputable company, please don't use those Checka type sites, and then ask the insurance company for a "final settlement" figure.

As a decorator, I have first hand experience of insurance companies sending out guys to repaint rooms that suffered fire damage 2 weeks after I had previously painted them. The insurance company paid way more than I had previously charged and the work was really paints. the customer got a final figure settlement, and I restored the room to the state that it was in when I first painted it.
 
I am guessing using the lining paper method on the affected areas, will not blend in to the other areas as I am thinking the loss adjustor may only cover areas caused by water damaged. I will ask and find out otherwise, ask for a settlement.

Regarding point 3. the oil painted door frames and skirtings will be repainted with water base paint, do these need to be sanded to bare wood before applying the water base paint?
 
I am guessing using the lining paper method on the affected areas, will not blend in to the other areas as I am thinking the loss adjustor may only cover areas caused by water damaged. I will ask and find out otherwise, ask for a settlement.

Regarding point 3. the oil painted door frames and skirtings will be repainted with water base paint, do these need to be sanded to bare wood before applying the water base paint?
I recommended lining paper because the company used by the insurance company may have introduced unacceptable paint build up. A decent decorator can seamlessly hang lining paper over a whole wall.

Point number 3- why? Oil based paint is far more durable than water based paints. I would want like for like.
 
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OK.

Water base paint seems to have less VOC/fumes, so I prefer to use this one. Now need to think whether it needs to be sand down to bare wood?
 

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