Relocating socket

[landbeach]

I'm about to install a range cooker which is wider than the existing oven and I therefore need to move an above worktop 13A double socket 20cm to the side as the existing location will be behind the new oven's splashback.

I have chased out the 20cm and cut out the space for the new back box and was planning to remove the existing socket, extend the two ring cables using choc block, route the cables to the new socket location and cover the choc block/old back box with a blanking plate.

However, I have discovered that the existing socket also has a spur to the cooker hood, so there are three cables to the back of the existing socket. A couple of questions...

1. Is is Ok to just extend the spur cable to the new socket as well as the existing ring main cables?
2. If this is OK - can I run all three cables in the same conduit (to be plastered over) without thee being an issue of overheating?
3. The new splashback will cover over the blanking plate and will be screwed to the wall - I presume this is Ok since the choc bloc joints will still be "accessible" (I intend to label the new socket in some way for future reference) Is this OK?
4. Is there a "low profile" blanking plate available, as I'm not sure a standard one will be flush enough to the wall for the splashback to be totally flush?

Thanks for any help received....!

 

[ryanj]

1. Is is Ok to just extend the spur cable to the new socket as well as the existing ring main cables?

You can extend it to the new socket if you want, as long as the connection is accessible.

If it is not possible to make the connection accessible, it should be welded, soldered, brazed together, or you can use crimps. The connection must be made in a suitable enclosure.

2. If this is OK - can I run all three cables in the same conduit (to be plastered over) without thee being an issue of overheating?

It would depend on the size of the conduit, three pieces of 2.5mm^2 twin & earth does add up to quite a lot, so the conduit would need to be quite big.

As an alternative you could use metallic capping, or if the cables are within the safe zones (e.g. horizontal & vertical from the accessory) you could use plastic capping, or just bury the cables directly.

3. The new splashback will cover over the blanking plate and will be screwed to the wall - I presume this is Ok since the choc bloc joints will still be "accessible" (I intend to label the new socket in some way for future reference) Is this OK?

I don't know if that would still count as "accessible", to many electricians. You could use crimps inside the box, as these aren't required to be accessible for maintiance.

4. Is there a "low profile" blanking plate available, as I'm not sure a standard one will be flush enough to the wall for the splashback to be totally flush?

I'm not sure there is a standard flush blanking plate. The only ones i've saw are from MK's Edge range, there probably to expensive for your needs.

If you were to use crimps, you wouldn't need the blanking plate, as long as the connection was made in a suitable enclosure.

 

[Lectrician]

I would ring the socket.

Why lengthen all three??

Get a 150x150mm galv trunking end cap from a wholesaler, and cut your own blank.

Join one ring cable to a new length of cable, and run this to the new socket, join the other ring cable to the spur cable and to a new length of cable, and run this to the new socket also.

Easy peasy One piece of 20 or 25mm oval tube would be best to link from one socket to the other. Dont forget grommets. And a warning sticker at the CU if you use the new coloured cable.