Relocation of socket plus adding a FCU - is this layout ok?

[CRL1]

Hi,

In our kitchen we have a cooker cable and a 13 amp socket cable that's in the way of fitting a cooker hood. Also, the 13 amp socket can only be switched off by moving the cooker (which is a range gas with second electric oven 2.5kw)

I will not be using the cooker outlet, but want to keep it, so I want to move it a few inches to the left of where it is now.

I want to use the 13 amp cabling to fit a FCU in a position where it can be switched off easily, and run a 13 amp socket spur from the FCU to behind the cooker a few inches to the right of where it is now.

I intend to do all the channeling into the plaster, cut out the coving and ceiling plaster board, get the cabling ready in postion etc., but get an electrician to connect things up and issue a certificate.

I do not want to damage my tiles, hence the FCU would be above them.

Can anyone see any problems with this layout in my crude drawing?

 

[Chri5]

You can't have obscured fused spurs or sockets or cooker switches!

What would happen if you have a chip pan fire or an electrical appliance that goes wonky and starts to burn?

I accept that is what you may have at the moment, but that isn't right either.

You can have an obscured cooker connection point, but the switching must be accessible without any requirement to move a heavy lump of range.

 

[stem]

You can't have obscured fused spurs or sockets or cooker switches!

I don't see that he does. Cooker outlet control switch above left worktop next to fan. Socket (assume for hob ignition) switched by FCU next to wall cupboard on right.

 

[JohnW2]

You can't have obscured fused spurs or sockets or cooker switches!

I don't see that he does. Cooker outlet control switch above left worktop next to fan. Socket (assume for hob ignition) switched by FCU next to wall cupboard on right.

If I understand the OP correctly, I agree - as you say, it looks as if there will be acessible means of isolation for both the (inaccessible) cooker outlet and the (inaccessible) 13A socket. The FCU probably should be a switched one, not only to achieve double-pole isolation but also because removal of a fuse isn't an ideal way of switching something off.

Kind Regards, John

 

[CRL1]

Thanks for your replies.

Just to be clear:

What I have at the moment is a cooker point behind the cooker with an accessible cooker switch next to the fan switch - I just want to move the cooker cable and point a couple of inches to the left - out of the way so I can fit a cooker hood and vent to the outside.

The 13 amp socket I have at the moment behind the cooker has no accessible means of turning it off. I want to change the layout so that that I can have access to turn it off, and also move the 13 amp socket and cable out of the way of the cooker hood.

Yes, I am having a switched FCU.

So just to clarify, there is no problem with the new (in blue) layout? Eg. is the position of the FCU above the tiles okay? Also, are there any regulations about how close a 13 amp socket can be to a gas point?

It's just that I don't want to do all this chasing out and preparation for an electrician to come in and tell me I can't put everything where I've planned!

Many thanks for your help, much appreciated.

 

[JohnW2]

Just to be clear: What I have at the moment is a cooker point behind the cooker with an accessible cooker switch next to the fan switch - I just want to move the cooker cable and point a couple of inches to the left - out of the way so I can fit a cooker hood and vent to the outside. The 13 amp socket I have at the moment behind the cooker has no accessible means of turning it off.

Yes, that's what I thought you meant.

I want to change the layout so that that I can have access to turn it off, and also move the 13 amp socket and cable out of the way of the cooker hood. Yes, I am having a switched FCU. So just to clarify, there is no problem with the new (in blue) layout? Eg. is the position of the FCU above the tiles okay?

I can see no problem with any of that.

Also, are there any regulations about how close a 13 amp socket can be to a gas point?

Gas pipework is meant toi be at least 150mm from any electrical accessories (like a socket) and at least 25mm from any electricity cables.

Kind Regards, John