Remote switch for immersion heater on ring

[Jaymack]

This is the cheapest option: -

http://www.maplin.co.uk/Module.aspx?ModuleNo=42504&C=Maplin&U=SearchTop&T=REMOTE CONTROL&doy=11m10

If link doesn't work - search for the code number.

13A Remote Skts 4 Pk Code L95AR £19.99

 

[tim west]

All great ideas thanks everyone.

Tim: From a quick look at that device it looks really good except that I don't think you can tell from the remote whether the appliance is on or off. I think I'd get really paranoid that the remote hadn't worked or something like that and I'd have 6kw drain on my electrical supply (or ~50p/hour). Are you aware of any similar device that does send feedback re. whether the device is on or off?

You could use another module on the same group to control say a table lamp downstairs, but of course the only true way of knowing would be an indicator supplied by the same module as the immersion.

 

[Adam_151]

@Spacecat, not really what ring final circuits are for, and in this case especially with two heaters which are obviously going to be in the sa,e place (unless he has two tanks), a radial in 4mm² seems a better bet.

 

[bernardgreen]

Are you aware of any similar device that does send feedback re. whether the device is on or off?

The simple switch with a neon indicator as feed back.

The KISS method is best....... Keep It Simple Sir

 

[Space cat]

a radial in 4mm² seems a better bet.

Upon careful consideration I agree. Why take two cables to the FCUs when one thicker one will do.

 

[DanAir]

@Spacecat, not really what ring final circuits are for, and in this case especially with two heaters which are obviously going to be in the sa,e place (unless he has two tanks), a radial in 4mm² seems a better bet.

I do have two tanks indeed, but they're in the same place (not literally of course - that would be impossible )

 

[Space cat]

I do have two tanks indeed, but they're in the same place

In that case I would do it like this:

1) Free up a space in your CU as per Steve.

2) Run a 4 sq mm radial from a new 32 amp breaker (or 30 amp fuse) as per Adam_151.

3) Put two switched FCUs with neons at the end of the radial with a 13 amp fuse in each.

4) Run 1.5 or 2.5 sq mm flat twin and earth to each tank.

5) Terminate the flat twins in junction boxes near the tanks and use 13 amp rated three core heat proof flex to connect the heaters.

If your switched FCUs are next to the tanks you can skip step 4. Now all you have to do is decide where you want the FCUs.