Removal of radiator no bleed valve

[morqthana]

Yes, the horizonal valve to the left hand side of the thermostat (not the valve on the left of the radiator)

That's the drain point for the entire system. Is it/could it be the lowest point in the pipework?

There IS a tank in the attic, yep.

A big one, or a small one?

However, I thought if I isolated the radiator using the valves either side, than that would isolate everything? No?

It will isolate the radiator.

It will stop water flowing along the red path into the radiator. It will do nothing to stop it flowing along the green path out of the drain valve.

 

[blaham]

That's the drain point for the entire system. Is it/could it be the lowest point in the pipework?




A big one, or a small one?




It will isolate the radiator.

It will stop water flowing along the red path into the radiator. It will do nothing to stop it flowing along the green path out of the drain valve.

View attachment 398786

Hiya.

Large tank, approx 80 litres.

House is 26 years old. This radiator is the lowest, and closest to a exterior door.

Re the water path. Curious, when I turned the heating back on, the hot water came up from the left side pipe, not up from the right, as suggested with your arrows. Weird or a quirk?

The radiator is about 70cms x 50cms, and the water coming out ran for over 15 minutes when both valves were turned off.

I think that the thermostat valve is the issue, and feel work tomorrow to look at this will help.

Thank you for the suggestion of flipping the radiator down, it won't work in this situtation.

 

[endecotp]

Clearly running for 15 minutes is far more than the contents of that little radiator. Note that your system is now full of fresh water, and no inhibitor chemicals. When you’ve finished you will need to add new inhibitor.

Presumably one or other valve is not closed. Have you turned the lockshield valve the right way? Is the thermostatic valve head screwed properly onto the valve body? Does it have something that prevents you from turning it all the way off? (Some have an anti-frost feature and you have to press something in to go all the way to zero.)

Have you found the bleed valve yet?

 

[blaham]

Clearly running for 15 minutes is far more than the contents of that little radiator. Note that your system is now full of fresh water, and no inhibitor chemicals. When you’ve finished you will need to add new inhibitor.

Presumably one or other valve is not closed. Have you turned the lockshield valve the right way? Is the thermostatic valve head screwed properly onto the valve body? Does it have something that prevents you from turning it all the way off? (Some have an anti-frost feature and you have to press something in to go all the way to zero.)

Have you found the bleed valve yet?

Thanks.

Fascinating - how will inhibitor chemicals be important, and what are you recommending exactly?

Yes, the thermostat valve was turned all the way, and I feel you may be right, and this needs to be removed to ensure this. Would you know how please?

No, I have not found a bleed valve on the radiator, there is not one.

Thanks

 

[ETAF]

here are some pictures of the bleed valve at the back of a slim radiator - on the forum

Replacement Radiator Bleed Valve Grub Screw (Air Bleeding)

Hello everybody, Second thread for me on the forum! I have old radiators in the house (about 12-15 years). Single flat panel with fins. Writing on radiator: BS 3528 and further on FEK 1 A. Bleed System - The bleed screw, screws directly into the back face of the radiator. Pictures...

www.diynot.com

and a video

probably all painted over - Mine was and difficult to undo

If you dont find the bleed valve then when you fill the system up , air will be trapped in the radiator and it will not heat up correctly - Hot at the bottom and cold middle to top

The inhibitor is important , because it stops the radiators rusting , and prevents limescale - so that will need to be added into the header tank (which is better then trying to add to a pressurised system - which i have had to do a few times now) when finished
Just a DIYer, but when ever i have done this , i prefer to use fenox F1 , which many plumber have recommended in past to me

 

[Dereekoo]

I would like to remove it to repair the wall behind it, and redecorate. What is the other option?

AS Morq says, but does not look like you have the upward movement available but if you could you would be advised to use some support bricks for the radiator to rest on when hinged downwards to prevent strain on the feed pipes.

Other option is to place bungs in the feed and expansion pipes so the system does not expel water due to gravity when the radiator nuts are undone, There are plastic bungs that you can buy for this work but in the past I have used suitably sized carrots wrapped in a plastic food bag to attain the desired effect. Work on one valve at a time and when released use blanking caps to isolate them completely and enable the system to be put back into operation if required. Of course there is still the water in the rad to deal with but thats just a case of a drip tray/towels.