Removing a toilet

[gas01]

I've just replaced a rad in my downstairs toilet and the valve and am now ready to tackle something a little more daring.

So I'm going to remove my 30 year old toilet which is cemented into the floor or at least the waste bit is.

My question is do i just smash the pipe and how do i remove the cement.

Also when fitting a new toilet which will probably come with a flexible waste pipe, how does the flexible waste pipe connect to the now 'hole in the floor' Do i need to leave some of the existing toilet waste pipe or once removed should i just be left with a hole in the floor.

Thanks
G

 

[kevplumb]

goggles and some good gloves break the pan as high as you can then stuff a bag etc down the pipe then break the rest out hammer and chisel job

the new pan connector fits inside the pipe

 

[gas01]

Thanks Kev, so the bag is meant to catch all the pipe bits that I break I assume.

So does the pipe in the ground come up as far as the floor level them.
And how does the pipe from the new toilet actually connect to the pipe below floor level.

Many thanks
G

 

[kevplumb]

yes it is / does

the pan connector has rubber fins on it that do the job

multiquick springs to mind

 

[gas01]

So these rubber fins make a seal with the inner pipe then.
Does that mean I do not need to use any type of sealant and that the pipe will be a push fit type.

And I'll assume I don't cement it back in now days !

Thanks for your help and advice Kev, it's nice that there are guys around to assist us home owners that don't always have the cash for a plumber unless of course it a major problem !!

G

 

[kevplumb]

when you do mate you will need it

 

[ChrisR]

YOur new potty will have a horizontal outlet, so you'll need a right angled connector. You might find that makes the cistern 3" from the wall or something similar! Unless you spend loads, bogs don't vary much. BUt you can get a sort of question mark shaped connector which will help a little.

Yes the connector goes inside the soil pipe. They come with various length "arms" on the L shape you need, some are v long down into the floor. If you get a Polypipe connector you'll have to use a bit of half round gutter or summat to get the rubber ribby bit down into the soil pipe, but the female end at the pan end seals much better than a Multiqwik.

If the pipe is clay be careful. It is possible to get a disastrous break which goes way down. Whether clay or iron, if you use a small angle grinder (or series of drilled holes) to make radial slots in the bell end bit which you won't use and might be in the way, a tap with a hammer will break the bits of the bell end off with no drama.