Removing window to fit French Doors

[flyingsparks]

Hi all, just wondered if there was any pointers I should be looking out for before starting the next job on my house renovation.

Got a dining room upvc window which I am removing to fit a upvc french patio door to fit into. Its the same width so lintels etc should all be ok.

Obviously will remove the old frame, and cut down with the disc cutter to floor level to remove the wall underneath.

Fit new frames securely making sure everything is level. Use packers and expanding foam around the edges.

Fit glass into doors, I have some plastic shims too.

Where the cavity is, do I need to put anything to cover this now exposed gap?

Do I need to put any kind of damp proofing on the floor below the sill?

Any other things I should be prepared for when doing the job?

Thanks for your input!

 

[Karis]

Got a dining room upvc window which I am removing to fit a upvc french patio door to fit into. Its the same width so lintels etc should all be ok.

Should be OK as far as the lintel goes but are you aware fitting replacement windows/doors is notifyable unless you use a FENSA registered installer! If you’re notifying, the BI will also want to see what you’ve done to maintain the damp proof integrity of the floor & wall cavities (see below) before issuing the necessary certificate of compliance.

Obviously will remove the old frame, and cut down with the disc cutter to floor level to remove the wall underneath.

Have you used a disc cutter before? It will make short work of cutting masonry but are a very dangerous piece of kit. Be very careful, they can easily cripple & even be lethal in inexperienced hands.

Fit new frames securely making sure everything is level. Use packers and expanding foam around the edges.

Fit packers either side of the frame fixings or you will distort the frame when they are tightened. You should also silicone seal around the outside of the frame.

Fit glass into doors, I have some plastic shims too.

Have you done this before? You need to toe & heel the glass or the weight will distort the frames & prevent the doors closing properly.

Where the cavity is, do I need to put anything to cover this now exposed gap?

Easiest way is to use plastic cavity closers. Do not bridge the inner & outer cavity or you will have damp problems.

Do I need to put any kind of damp proofing on the floor below the sill?

You must maintain an integral damp course or you’ll get damp in the floor, how you do this depends what you find when you cut the wall out. If it’s built on a strip footing, the cavity will most likely be open below floor level which you will need to infill but do not bridge the inner & outer cavities below the DPC or you will get damp in the floor.

Again this can be done with a cavity closer or some use slate but you need to extend the floor membrane across the cavity, up to floor level & the bottom of the new frame.

Any other things I should be prepared for when doing the job?

The beading on some profiles can be a pig to fit & you need to do it in the right order, can be difficult if youve not done it before. Trick is to be confident when fitting glass, it's harder to break then you might think but is easily broken if you get it wrong!

 

[flyingsparks]

Thanks Karis, answers to your questions.

Got a dining room upvc window which I am removing to fit a upvc french patio door to fit into. Its the same width so lintels etc should all be ok.

Should be OK as far as the lintel goes but are you aware fitting replacement windows/doors is notifyable unless you use a FENSA registered installer! If you’re notifying, the BI will also want to see what you’ve done to maintain the damp proof integrity of the floor & wall cavities (see below) before issuing the necessary certificate of compliance.

Obviously will remove the old frame, and cut down with the disc cutter to floor level to remove the wall underneath.

Have you used a disc cutter before? It will make short work of cutting masonry but are a very dangerous piece of kit. Be very careful, they can easily cripple & even be lethal in inexperienced hands.

Fit new frames securely making sure everything is level. Use packers and expanding foam around the edges.

Fit packers either side of the frame fixings or you will distort the frame when they are tightened. You should also silicone seal around the outside of the frame.

Fit glass into doors, I have some plastic shims too.

Have you done this before? You need to toe & heel the glass or the weight will distort the frames & prevent the doors closing properly.

Where the cavity is, do I need to put anything to cover this now exposed gap?

Easiest way is to use plastic cavity closers. Do not bridge the inner & outer cavity or you will have damp problems.

Do I need to put any kind of damp proofing on the floor below the sill?

You must maintain an integral damp course or you’ll get damp in the floor, how you do this depends what you find when you cut the wall out. If it’s built on a strip footing, the cavity will most likely be open below floor level which you will need to infill but do not bridge the inner & outer cavities below the DPC or you will get damp in the floor.

Again this can be done with a cavity closer or some use slate but you need to extend the floor membrane across the cavity, up to floor level & the bottom of the new frame.

Any other things I should be prepared for when doing the job?

The beading on some profiles can be a pig to fit & you need to do it in the right order, can be difficult if youve not done it before. Trick is to be confident when fitting glass, it's harder to break then you might think but is easily broken if you get it wrong!

Yes will get the job notified, thanks for letting me know.

Regarding the disc cutter, yes no worrys, I am use to using disc cutters, chainsaws, etc etc!

toe and heel, not sure about that, I will google it now, but thanks for the heads up on that.

Will get a cavity closer fotr the cavity, what do you mean by needing to extending the floor membrane, you mean the plastic under the concrete screed? How would you join the membranes together?

Thanks Chris

 

[Karis]

Yes will get the job notified, thanks for letting me know.

It’s best or you could have problems if you cant produce a compliance certificate when you come to sell up.

Regarding the disc cutter, yes no worrys, I am use to using disc cutters, chainsaws, etc etc!

Me too but I still find them one awesome & frightening bit of kit. A while back I was on a hospital ward (after op on my finger) & the guy one side if me had practically cut his foot off with one while cutting flagstones & the guy the other side of me had sliced through his kneecap after a chainsaw kicked back on him while he was undercutting; really cheerful stay but sobering & always makes me think & concentrate a bit more!

toe and heel, not sure about that, I will google it now, but thanks for the heads up on that.

http://www.malberntradewindows.co.uk/toeandheel.html

what do you mean by needing to extending the floor membrane, you mean the plastic under the concrete screed? How would you join the membranes together?

Depending on how it’s been built, you will most likely end up with an open cavity (which can be quiet deep) in the base where the original wall was. You need to fill to the floor level under the original DPM. Sometimes you’ll find the original plastic DPM was laid up the side which you can fold down. You can then lay a new strip of membrane over the top, lay the new screed section to floor level over the overlapping DPM’s; cut the DPM level with the floor after it sets.

Give the overlapping plastic membranes a good dose of this; http://www.ikogroup.co.uk/Products/...anking-Membranes/IKOpro-Synthaprufe-Original/
You can even use it instead of plastic membrane.