I have a wall which curves like an elongated 'S'. Any ideas what sort of beading I can put on top and bottom to help me get the render even? I tried some stainless beading for the bottom but it wont bend (without kinking) due to its profile.
Rendering a curvy wall
- Thread starter WabbitPoo
- Start date
Is it outside (cos of stainless?).
If not Will it be rendered or skimmed?
Do you need the beading to give you a finished edge or are you just looking for a guide/profile?
stop bead with spit fix thats if the radius allows,to tight and you will have to buy off the shelf,last time i did it was £30 a length,but it makes rounds a doddle.
how about some thin timber strips soaked in water so they will flex alot more without snapping, these can be drilled and screwed as much as required, you could double up on two thinner strips if it is a sharper radius.
As good a way as any,,, just be careful you don't damage the render when/if you remove them.
i think you can get strike release oil to put on the timber 
a couple of strips of 6mm ply fixed one on top of the other maybe?
not sure i understand what you mean. I know what stop bead is, but the "spit" bit?!
You can use a timber as suggested, and ease it in or out with packers.
(A pvc trim, such as you see used to tidy up around windows, or a long pvc curtain rail that has been chucked out is also good as they make a natural curve easier, and render won't stick if you give them a spray of WD40. )
Oil the edges that will touch the render, bearing in mind you will get a bit behind it in places.
When scratching, "nib out" to the timber. ie the rest of the area will be scratched flat in a plane behind the front of the timber to allow you for a float coat of say, 8-10mm, but as you come to the timber,fill out at an angle to it so you have a 20mm fillet coming out flush to the timber, making sure none of it is proud by running a guager or trowel along the timber when finished.
This will give you a nice edge to float to , acting almost like a bead itself.
It will stop the timber moving as you rub up your render, and because this nibbed out render is a bit stronger than the float coat it will be less likely to crack as you remove the timber. It also means you are coating onto fresh oil once, rather than putting a float coat on a couple of days after you first oiled the timber.This nibbing out is not vital if you are leaving the timber on for a few days, but it makes life easier in the long run.
Make sure when finished, and the timber is removed, you bend down and check for any render that has bled down behind it, you can then gently remove this if it is still green, or you may have to chip it with a bolster but be careful. These bits you don't see when standing near the wall, but as you move further back they might be spotted, so get them now before painting.
(A pvc trim, such as you see used to tidy up around windows, or a long pvc curtain rail that has been chucked out is also good as they make a natural curve easier, and render won't stick if you give them a spray of WD40. )
Oil the edges that will touch the render, bearing in mind you will get a bit behind it in places.
When scratching, "nib out" to the timber. ie the rest of the area will be scratched flat in a plane behind the front of the timber to allow you for a float coat of say, 8-10mm, but as you come to the timber,fill out at an angle to it so you have a 20mm fillet coming out flush to the timber, making sure none of it is proud by running a guager or trowel along the timber when finished.
This will give you a nice edge to float to , acting almost like a bead itself.
It will stop the timber moving as you rub up your render, and because this nibbed out render is a bit stronger than the float coat it will be less likely to crack as you remove the timber. It also means you are coating onto fresh oil once, rather than putting a float coat on a couple of days after you first oiled the timber.This nibbing out is not vital if you are leaving the timber on for a few days, but it makes life easier in the long run.
Make sure when finished, and the timber is removed, you bend down and check for any render that has bled down behind it, you can then gently remove this if it is still green, or you may have to chip it with a bolster but be careful. These bits you don't see when standing near the wall, but as you move further back they might be spotted, so get them now before painting.
may i add you might whish to add a drip to your bottom timber by taping on a bit of small cheap quadrant bang in the midle of your lath.
excuse my ignorance...a drip?
A bellcast drip bead normally, but in this case, because the wall is curved, Micilin suggested it could be formed using a length of rope to give the render at the bottom of the wall it's shape,,,, anything to throw any water away from the wall,,,,, the quadrant External suggested would work too.
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