Rendering timber frame

[Screech20]

Hey guys.

Just after a bit of advice with my first go at rendering.

I'm going to be building a garden outbuilding, which will be made off site flat pack style (including the render), then just erected on site style.

First of all, I'm guessing sand and cement render is what I need, but what's the best way to applybitbtonthe timber frame?
It will be studs, osb board, breather membrane, battens..... Then whatever's needed.

Then, once it's up, each panel will have a join, is there some kind of flexible sealant I can put down them?
I think I'll be rendering just short of the edges, so that the osb butts together, leaving a recess for this sealant?

Am I on the right sort of track?

Cheers

 

[ree]

No, you are on the wrong track.

The Timber frame should be erected on its site base - consider how you will fix the bottom plate and how you will prevent moisture from creeping under the bottom plate. You also have to consider which direction the door and window(?) will go in.

First the frame & roof, then screw on the boarding, then 15 pound black felt, then stretch and nail chicken wire with clout nails. You can now apply the 3:1 S&C render.
No joins are left exposed, sealant is not needed, neither are battens.

 

[Screech20]

The timber frame is to be constructed off the ground, using a few courses of bricks first.
The outer sheathing will be below the sole plate with a slight overhang, using the battens, which will also because it is drain and vented.
So once the battens are on top of the membrane covered osb, it'll be ready to take whatever the render will go on...


Cheers

 

[Alastairreid]

Fix builders paper to the battens then expamet lath to accept your render scratchcoat.

You shouldnt have any seams to fill but if you have a long run you can use expansion beads.

 

[roughcaster]

As Alastair says, use metal lath, (eml) , it's made for that type of job. There are 2 types of eml, galvanised and stainless steel.

 

[ree]

The overhang of the base is the way to go but simply bring the sole plate up to the edge and drop the sheathing boards say 25mm for an overhang.

I repeat, battens are not necessary on a rendered garden shed - what you are proposing is, in effect, a vented rain screen, and that type of building detail is not typically used with render - as a DIY'er it might even give you difficulties.

Fix your paper to the sheathing and 25mm or 50mm chicken wire on top of the paper ( c/w is cheap and effective).

The best protection for a shed is a good roof soffit overhang.

 

[Screech20]

I forgot to mention, the studs will be insulated, and plaster boarded inside after erection.
I've do Eva lot of looking into this which is why I believe the air gap is required- it's just the rendering I thought I was stuck on.


Cheers

 

[ree]

Fair enough: but, just for information, given the above various suggestions, how do you propose to detail the shed rendering now?