Repainting Wooden doors

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Wooden doors. I painted using water-based white colour. First, I sanded down, I applied two coats, then second coat on the following day. I did not put undercoat or prime as it has been painted before. However, I noted doors still looking like if I applied one coat and the colour is uneven. I wonder if it is because it was previously painted with oil base paint, I do not if it was oil based. I want it to use a product called Zinsser bulls eye 1 2 3 primer-sealer stain killer then apply another coat of water based white paint, would this solve the problem? Do I need to sand it again?
 

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You photo is too small to see what the problem is.

Was the previous oil based finish yellowed?

As a decorator, the only waterbased finish that I have come across that I have been happy with is Eico. I first used it over very yellowed oil based gloss. It's ability to block the colour however is pants. Apply it, it looks lovely and white. The next day it looked yellow. I resorted to using oil based undercoat to obliterate the colour, but had to wait a few days before I could overcoat it with Eico (do it too soon and you get fisheyes). I did email them, they recommended using their super colour obliterating waterbased primer/undercoat).

I have tried the said undercoat, but over the years, I have never come across a white waterbased undercoat that obliterates colours and that has minimal tramlines.
 
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I have never come across a white waterbased undercoat that obliterates colours
Most likely your skill is pants. I painted over oil paint with cheap or expensive water paint with no problems.
 
This radiator pipe was painted with the same yellowing oil paint as the skirting board. After 1 coat of zinsser 123, it's whiter already. On completion it will be white as the moulding.

priming.png
 
After 1 primer and 1 top coat, I am satisfied with the result and consider the job complete. The pipe top coat is the screwfix water gloss white. The moulding is aqua guard water satin wood. The whiteness doesn't match but acceptable to me. My greater interest is to match the aged enamel on the radiator. I will use the screwfix paint to touch up on the radiator rust repairs.
final-coat.png
 
Here's priming the skirting board using screwfix no nonsense wood primer. I will call this 1.5 coats of the primer as I was trying to get rid of excessive primer I poured out, all done in the same sitting. It covered the old paint fine all by itself. The top coat can go on that. Using this primer because it's cheaper than zinsser.

priming.png
 
Rub paint with Meths. If it's water based the cloth will take some off.

Meths won't remove oil based paint
 
It's a bit messed up now. The paint will most likely fail from lack of adhesion. When unsure what is there, always use primer. Water paint will not go well over oil paint unless primed.

You don't seem to know the difference between a primer and undercoat. That said, in the case of waterbased paints, undercoats are often, but not always, suitable as primers.

Undercoat or not, the key to adhesion is scuffing (read: keying) the existing paint first. Waterbased undercoat applied directly to oil based gloss will not pass the fingernail test any better than waterbased gloss.
 
Just one topcoat of aqua guard did the trick for the skirting board. No more yellowing paint henceforth. Unless you line up these photos side by side, you may not be able to tell the difference. This concludes demonstration of cheap and expensive primers, and cheap and expensive paints.

top-coat.png
 
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