Replace and moving a hardwire oven to a 13 amp plug Everhot

[AdviceValued]

Hi
I have a hardwired oven into a 30 amp circuit currently but whiny to do the following instead:
-replace the oven with a 13 amp Everhot oven
- move it about 2-3 meters (thus extend the wire connection)
- be able to plug it in under counter but switch it off above counter
- plug in a microwave near the Everhot
- have an extractor fan at the new cooker space

I’ve had a go at drawing the old setup and new setup but would help in verifying if this is ok (wires (orange & purple) connections and sockets (black and red) and suggest improvements if required- I would like it to be compliant

 

[EFLImpudence]

Well, that's not very detailed.

If you want the cooker switch to control the oven socket (you don't have to but you said that was what you wanted) then the cable will have to be run to the switch first (then it will also switch off the other socket, of course).

You will have to use 4mm² cable for a 30A circuit.

 

[AdviceValued]

Thank you

I’ve just modified the diagram - is that what you mean?
So 4mm2 cable for the purple connection AND orange connection?

 

[ericmark]

This is the basic of what is allowed, I would add to that a fuse produces heat, that's how it ruptures, so a plug with a fuse in it needs to be in free air or forced ventilated air, often a oven plugged into a socket behind it has a fan which means the air is forced ventilated when in use. A FCU can dissipate heat into the wall, so not so bad, and black plugs are better than white at getting rid of heat, under 13 amp then unlikely to get to full heat, so not really the same problem.

You give no cable sizes so can't say if your diagram is OK or not, cable ratings are dependent on installation methods, in the main 4 mm² is good for 32 amp, but some times it needs 6 mm² I know you will not likely fill in a minor works or installation certificate, but you are still responsible for the design, I would suggest you down load the forms from the IET website, they are free, and use them as a check sheet.

Batt cables publish the ratings sheets, so again you can see what the cable will take with installation method used, in Wales where I live this is notifiable work, it is up to you to check what is notifiable where you live, it varies.

 

[EFLImpudence]

It's a cooker circuit, Eric, not a ring.

 

[EFLImpudence]

²I’ve just modified the diagram - is that what you mean?

Yes, but concealed cables can't wiggle about any old way. They must be horizontal or vertical to the accessories to which they are connected, and/or within 600mm. of ceiling or corners.

So 4mm2 cable for the purple connection AND orange connection?

Not actually required for purple as you have drawn it - but you may as well use 4mm² as it is much nicer to work with and will keep the circuit consistent.

 

[AdviceValued]

thats great, thank you. The oven circuit is on 10mm (and I have loads of 10mm wire). Is there any benefits to using 10mm for both the purple and orange (over the 4mm2- total appreciating it will be easier to work with)

 

[EFLImpudence]

No benefit, just a waste, but you could run 10mm² to the switch.


I have been assuming that the 'new' connector is at the original switch position. is that correct and what exactly is it?

Where does the cable come from?
If up from the floor or down from the ceiling, could you not intercept it at the floor or ceiling and join it at a better location?

 

[AdviceValued]

Yes that’s correct the connector is at the original switch position and comes down from the ceiling - it’s currently a round brown junction box (it was used for the hardwire cooker so have assumed was ok to reuse) but please do recommend something better if needed.

I would like advice on how to wire the extractor hood in best too? It’s floating in the diagram as not sure the best way to handle this and would like it connected to the cooker circuit if possible as no main circuit this side of the wall

 

[ericmark]

It's a cooker circuit, Eric, not a ring.

I have a hardwired oven into a 30 amp circuit

You may be correct, but all we know is it is on a 30 amp fuse, a MCB would be 32 amp. The diagram shows a cooker switch, so seems likely it was an old cooker circuit, but we have both failed to point out it now will need RCD protection of some sort, could of course be a RCBO, or he could be mistaken and it is 32 amp and already has RCD protection, however we simply don't know if ring final or radial.

 

[EFLImpudence]

As said, the new sockets will require an RCD on the circuit.



How are the cables to be installed? Buried in the wall?

Yes that’s correct the connector is at the original switch position and comes down from the ceiling - it’s currently a round brown junction box (it was used for the hardwire cooker so have assumed was ok to reuse) but please do recommend something better if needed.

I suppose it will be alright if it is alright and you don't mind looking at it.

Would the position be suitable for an extra socket?
You will not get 2 x 10mm² in socket terminals; nor 10 + 4, so maybe forget that suggestion.

I think a better description - or pictures - of the actual layout would help.

I would like advice on how to wire the extractor hood in best too? It’s floating in the diagram as not sure the best way to handle this and would like it connected to the cooker circuit if possible as no main circuit this side of the wall

You could have a smaller cable going from switch or socket to a Fused Connector or socket near the fan position.

 

[AdviceValued]

Thank you both so much- great and clear advice
Be blessed