Replace Fused spare with a single 13 amp socket

[Papaone]

I have a new build house and the builders, sparks, plumbers and kitchen fitter have left the place untidy and one of the jobs I want to do is to swap the fused spur from the mains for a single 13 amp socket and then plug the cooker hood back in and close it up again

The spur hidden behind the extractor hood, only powers the cooker hood and its integral lights. The washer dishwasher, hob, cooker and tumble dryer have their own isolators

There are 2 brown, 2 blue and 2 earth wires left when I have taken away the cooker hood lead and I connected each pair to their respective points on the 13 amp socket when I turned the power back on it tripped in the distribution box, upon further inspection the fused spur (Deta UK)
had a Blue Neutral, Brown (L )Supply a second Brown (L) Load and 2 Earths in line, a second (N) Supply was situated at the bottom of the socket under the first Blue (N) Load.
Hopefully I've attached a photo of the fused spur, can someone please tell me where I've gone wrong and do I need a different type of 13amp socket or not.

Thanks in anticipation.
Papaone.

 

[flameport]

The spur has 2 of each terminal as it's intended for power in to connect to the 'supply' terminals, and whatever the load is (the cooker hood) for the others.

A socket will have 1 of each, both wires of each colour into the terminals, so 2 brown into L, 2 blue into N, 2 green/yellow into E.
If it trips with nothing plugged in then either:
a. you connected it wrongly
b. a wire was damaged when it was screwed back against the wall (a common problem)
c. there are other serious problems with the wiring elsewhere.

 

[Papaone]

Thanks for your prompt response, it may be because it was damaged when I screwed it back to the wall, I will check it tomorrow when I have light.
The lead for the cooker hood was only 2 wire and didn't have an earth that wouldn't make any difference would it? and looking at the hood manual it didn't say what fuse it should have, 13 amp came with the spur and that was used in the new plug , is 13 amp too big?

 

[EFLImpudence]

The lead for the cooker hood was only 2 wire and didn't have an earth that wouldn't make any difference would it?

No.

and looking at the hood manual it didn't say what fuse it should have,

I'm surprised at that.
They usually do even though it's not necessary.

13 amp came with the spur and that was used in the new plug , is 13 amp too big?

It doesn't really matter but fit a 3A one.

Fuses are to protect cables, not appliances.

 

[mwatsonxx]

No.


I'm surprised at that.
They usually do even though it's not necessary.


It doesn't really matter but fit a 3A one.

Fuses are to protect cables, not appliances.

PLease stop posting this misleading and very dangerous advice. Appliances have cables between the plug and the appliance that need fuse protection. You are telling people these cables do not need protection.

 

[EFLImpudence]

PLease stop posting this misleading and very dangerous advice.

Which was that?

Appliances have cables between the plug and the appliance that need fuse protection.

They do and 13A will be fine - although I did say fit a 3A one.

You are telling people these cables do not need protection.

No I am not and did not.

Please examine your kettle lead and the fuse supplied.
Also, please learn about things so that you know what you are talking about and learn to read what people have actually written.

 

[mwatsonxx]

RE fuse for the cooker hood this what you said "I'm surprised at that.
They usually do even though it's not necessary." Or in other words "replace your plug fuses with nails"

That is a reasonable interpretation of your blase comment.

 

[ericmark]

Let me consider a scenario, the house is wired by two sets of electricians, first one does what is called the first fix, so thay puts in all the cables and back boxes, then the second set does the second fix which is to actually fit all the sockets and test all works.

Between the two the plaster comes in and does his job leaving holes where nearly every socket is to be, but for some reason misses putting a whole in for one socket.

When the second electrician tests he finds there is no ring final continuity, but assumes house wired with two radials not a ring, so one device is left not wired, and some one also makes an error fitting the fuse connection unit and gets a wire in the wrong hole.

As long as the FCU is not switched on everything works, had anyone actually looked at the switch they would have seen cooker hood actually worked when switched off.

When you came to work on it, you have connected up a back box which has nothing in and one wire is touching something causing a fault which is tripping the box.

There is only one way to find such a fault, and that is to do a full inspection and test of that circuit, there are no short cuts, no good guessing that’s how it happened in the first place.

However there should be some clues, first is the schedule of test results, this will show if the person testing thought he was testing a ring final or a radial. Then it’s time to get the test equipment out and find what is short circuit. There is not a fast fix; it is problems like this which make the job interesting. I had one luckily next door house allowed me to look around and I noted they had one more socket, a hammer through the plaster board soon found the missed back box in the house I was working on, and plastered were still on site so they had to fix plaster and arrange for painters to return.

I hope I am wrong, but there comes a point where you have to stop guessing and do the job step by step.

 

[JohnW2]

... Or in other words "replace your plug fuses with nails" ... That is a reasonable interpretation of your blase comment.

It would not be a reasonable interpretation for someone who had read and understood (which requires that they be capable of understanding) what EFLI actually wrote.

Kind Regards, John

 

[mwatsonxx]

It would not be a reasonable interpretation for someone who had read and understood (which requires that they be capable of understanding) what EFLI actually wrote.

Kind Regards, John

He said fuses for appliances are not necessary (that also means the supply cables), which could be interpreted as replace them with nails. And I stand by every word, his advice is misleading and dangerous.

 

[EFLImpudence]

He said fuses for appliances are not necessary (that also means the supply cables), which could be interpreted as replace them with nails. And I stand by every word, his advice is misleading and dangerous.

It doesn't really matter but fit a 3A one.
Fuses are to protect cables, not appliances.

Waste of time I know, but -
Do you agree that extractor fan manufacturers generally state that a 3A fuse should be fitted even though this is not necessary?

 

[DetlefSchmitz]

The same appliance sold in any other country in Europe would not have a fuse in the plug. It is not considered dangerous there so why here? There seems to be an obsession that using a fused plug is important. A correctly designed appliance will not overload its own cable.

 

[JohnW2]

He said fuses for appliances are not necessary (that also means the supply cables), which could be interpreted as replace them with nails.

You clearly can't read (and/or understand what you manage to read).

He did not say that. He said that it was not necessary for a manufacturer to say what fuse the appliance should have. Only a complete and utter idiot would, in the absence of such information, think that meant that they could use a BS1363 plug or FCU without any fuse in it, or with a nail instead of a fuse.

Kind Regards, John

 

[ban-all-sheds]

RE fuse for the cooker hood this what you said "I'm surprised at that.
They usually do even though it's not necessary." Or in other words "replace your plug fuses with nails"

That is a reasonable interpretation of your blase comment.

You're not very good at this, are you.

 

[ban-all-sheds]

one of the jobs I want to do is to swap the fused spur from the mains for a single 13 amp socket and then plug the cooker hood back in and close it up again

Wouldn't it have been so much easier just to remove the plug from the cooker hood flex?